Apples of the Earth: A Tater Tribute
High on a ridgeline on the edge of the Sugarloaf, North Carolina, in the hollow of a gap that gives way on one side to Shelton Laurel and on the other side to Spillcorn, potatoes have been cultivated for as long as anyone can remember.
As evoked previously, Tater Gap is a name that rings out to those who once rode up on mules, hoes in hand, or who climbed the steep mountainside on foot, crossing carefully from one community into the other. Daniel Boone is purported to have made his way across the Tater Gap once upon a time, as did the Adams and the Landers families; both had nine children, which made for two perfect baseball teams.
In my childhood years on Tater Gap, I often wandered over into Spillcorn, the names of both places beckoning irresistibly to my young spirit. Wild larkspur paved the hollers in springtime, and the two unmistakable leaves of the oniony ramp would pierce my nostrils when I stepped on them by mistake. Later, when for two decades I lived in France, I learned to call the familiar tubers of my childhood pommes de terre, or apples of the earth.
There are an infinite number of recipes that highlight the humble and earthy spud. Many comfort food recipes rely on them, as did the Irish, a sad fact that was brought home by the potato famine of the mid-1800s, which resulted in over a million deaths and the separation of countless families. In my varied culinary journeys, I have come to especially appreciate Appalachian ingredients paired with French technique, for a hybrid which I like to call “Frappalachian.”
Here are three things the French do to taters, to offer variety from the familiar tater tot.
Pommes Duchesse
Pommes Duchesse, or Duchess Potatoes, are a dish believed to have been named after a British duchess who once visited France and fell in love with these delicacies. Crispy on the outside, soft and fluffy on the inside, they satisfy the desire for both comfort and crunch.
Ingredients:
- 2 pounds potatoes (preferably Yukon Gold)
- 3 large egg yolks
- ¼ cup heavy cream
- 4 tablespoons butter
- Fresh-ground nutmeg
- Salt, pepper
Preparation:
Bring potatoes to a simmer and cook with salt until fork tender. Drain, return to pot, and add 2 tablespoons of butter, then mash until the butter has been incorporated. Add nutmeg, pepper, and heavy cream and continue mashing. Once everything is incorporated, add salt to taste. Then add the egg yolks. (Note: Don’t over mash, or your potatoes will end up with a gluey consistency.)
Pipe the potatoes, in teaspoon-sized amounts, onto a parchment-lined cookie sheet, using a piping bag with a large star point or a Ziplock bag with the corner cut out. Alternatively, you can just fill a casserole dish with the mashed potatoes, and use a fork to create mountainous peaks on the surface. Brush with butter just before popping in the oven for a crispier crust. Bake at 425°F until nicely browned, about 20 minutes. Serve piping hot.
Apples of the Earth: A Tater Tribute
Pommes Dauphine
Pommes Dauphine, named after the wife of the dauphin (heir apparent to the throne) of France, are fluffy pillows of mashed potatoes mixed with choux pastry (the kind used for making cream puffs or gougères).
Ingredients:
- Several potatoes, cooked in boiling water until tender
- 1 cup milk
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 3 large eggs
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 4 cups oil, for frying
Preparation:
Bring milk and butter to a boil in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from heat, and add flour all at once, stirring quickly with a sturdy wooden spoon. Return to low heat, stirring constantly until mixture forms a solid mass. Cook until mixture is somewhat dry, about 1 minute. Remove from heat again, and add eggs, salt, and nutmeg, and stir until dough is very smooth, then stir in the mashed potatoes.
Pour about 2½ inches of oil into a saucepan, and heat until it registers 350°F on a deep-frying thermometer. Scoop out 1-2 teaspoons of the dough, and, with your index finger, push the dough to the far edge of the spoon, and let it drop into the hot oil. (Be sure to position your spoon very close to the surface of the hot oil to prevent splashing.)
Repeat the process with the remaining dough, cooking about 12 potato balls at a time for 8 to 9 minutes, until the dauphines are well-puffed, browned, and cooked through. Remove with a slotted spoon, and drain on a wire rack. Serve hot.
Apples of the Earth: A Tater Tribute
Pommes Parisienne
Pommes Parisienne (Parisian potatoes), sometimes known as “pommes noisette”, or hazelnut-sized potatoes, are a decadent treat at any time. A melon baller is used to scoop out little potato balls that are traditionally fried in clarified butter until crisp and golden. You can also use oil, or a combination of the two.
Ingredients:
- Several large potatoes
- A couple tablespoons butter
- A smidge of oil (sunflower is good)
- Sea salt
- Parsley or rosemary to finish
Preparation:
Start by peeling the potatoes and putting them in cold water. Use the melon baller to carefully cut balls from the potatoes. Keep in water until ready to use.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil and add half a teaspoon of salt. Add the potatoes, boil for a few minutes, then drain.
Add the butter and oil to a large roasting pan and place in the oven to heat. When the oven has reached 400°F, add the potatoes and stir to make sure that they are fully coated in the butter mix.
Roast for 10 minutes or so, then turn and season. Return to the oven for an additional 5-10 minutes or so before serving. You can also roast them in a skillet or a wok on the stovetop.
Sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley or rosemary at the last minute.
About the author: Susi Gott Séguret, CCP, CSW, hails from the depths of Appalachia in Madison County, North Carolina, but honed her culinary skills in France, where she resided for over 20 years, earning a diploma in Gastronomy and Taste from the Cordon Bleu and the Université de Reims. Author of several cookbooks including Appalachian Appetite, and Cooking with Truffles, Susi orchestrates multiple sensory experiences including the Seasonal School of Culinary Arts, the Asheville Truffle Experience, and the Appalachian Culinary Experience. Passionate about elements of taste and style, and how they extend from our palate into our daily lives, Susi strives to blend food, music, words and images into a tapestry for the senses. For more details, visit quintessentialtable.com.