Blowing Rock, N.C.

A walk down Main Street in Blowing Rock is an exercise in pleasant distraction. Though only three square miles, the town is home to more than 100 shops, about two dozen restaurants, and nearly 20 hotels and inns. 

Large trees branch over the rock-lined sidewalks. In spring and summer, flower boxes and hanging plants garnish windows and lampposts. Side alleyways weave their way into charming courtyards, and four-legged friends can be seen walking with their owners alongside antique brick storefronts, clapboard houses, and new, stacked stone and timber frame construction. 

The Greenes were the first family to settle in Blowing Rock. They came in the mid-1800s and established a home in what would become part of the Green Park Hotel property. Other early settlers included the Hayes, Coffey, Bolick, Estes and Storie families. The town incorporated in 1889. In addition to the early settlers, the town’s residents were soldiers’ families who had sought shelter in the remote mountains during the Civil War. 

With its cool, beautiful location, Blowing Rock became a popular place for tourists from the low, flat lands seeking shelter from the heat. To bolster the economy and attract more tourists, the town passed an ordinance for fencing in livestock in 1896, which allowed visitor accommodations to flourish. 

Moses H. Cone was one of Blowing Rock’s most influential early residents. A textile magnate drawn to the Blue Ridge Mountains, Cone wished to build an estate of his own design based on his sustainable lifestyle. He purchased 3,500 acres just north of town and began construction on his 13,000-square-foot Flat Top Manor in 1899. Moses and his wife Bertha had three lakes on the property stocked with bass and trout, imported whitetail deer, raised sheep and milk cows, and planted several apple tree varieties that in just a short time produced 40,000 bushels of fruit in a good season. A carbide plant on the property provided gas for lighting and cooking.

The Cones had no children. Moses died in 1908 at age 51. Bertha lived on another 39 years. When she passed, she left the Flat Top Manor estate to the Moses H. Cone Memorial Hospital in Greensboro. The hospital in turn donated the estate to the Federal Government. Flat Top Manor is now home to the Parkway Craft Center, a craft shop of the Southern Highland Craft Guild, exhibiting works by artisans from nine Appalachian states. The crafts range from baskets and woodcarvings to quilts and ironwork. A bookstore carries trail maps, brochures, nature books and guidebooks.

Over the years, Blowing Rock has remained true to its tourist economy roots. Today, only 1,500 full-time residents call Blowing Rock home, while the summer population swells to 8,000. Specialty shops and cozy dining spots line both sides of the street downtown where visitors meander. Slowing to peer through a store window, they are drawn in by handcrafted vases or whimsical T-shirts, locally-made fudge or the promise of a candle-making demonstration. It’s a town both bustling and friendly, perfect for families, couples on a weekend getaway, or a group of long-time friends. 

Parking is at a premium, so once you find a spot, leave the wheels behind and set out on foot. Unique shopping stops include Barking Rock, a pet boutique, Christmas in Blowing Rock (packed to the hilt with glittering ornaments all year long), and the Dulcimer Shop, in business since 1971 and a great place to learn about the hammer and lap dulcimers often heard in mountain music. Sports fans will enjoy We’re Good Sports, where just about every mascot and team logo can be found. Pleasant Papers’ in-store imprinting can customize stationery or leather goods in less than an hour. 

Designer metalsmith Gaines Kiker works from his smithing shop on Morris Street, creating one-of-a-kind pieces ranging from pendants to serving ware. Dirtworks Pottery features functional works by Dan Triece and his protégées, and is an excellent place to find that souvenir coffee mug you actually will want to use—or a larger vessel for the dining room table. Iago art gallery is a showcase of art from around the world, as owners Doug Lacher and Xiaodi Tang bring together a global perspective and Appalachian craftsmanship. Bolick Pottery and Traditions Pottery located in the Martin House on Main Street features handmade pottery including face jugs, Rebekah pitchers, candle sticks, mugs, bowls and teapots, as well as Original Owens Pottery. The studio itself is located on Highway 321 three miles south of town. 

Dining can get complicated—but only because of the popularity of downtown eateries, which become quite crowded during peak tourist seasons. At Glidewell’s the menu favors Southern cuisine with an emphasis on seafood and farm-fresh products. Main dishes seem at first rather predictable but come together nicely with their accompaniments, sauces, greens and grains in particular. If bisque is on the list of daily specials, order it. 

The Speckled Trout Café and Oyster Bar has been a favorite among the local establishments since 1986 and offers casual, hearty fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Here you will find oysters on the half shell, pierogies (Eastern European fried potato and cheese dumplings), a Rainbow Trout Po’ Boy, shrimp and grits, and a children’s menu with chicken fingers and PB & J sandwiches. 

The Village Café, which is listed on the National Register of History Places, offers a garden atmosphere in a turn-of-the-century house, a quaint place for breakfast, brunch and lunch. 

For a real taste of the South, stop in Knight’s On Main for breakfast, lunch or dinner. If you’re adventuresome or just feeling anemic, order up some livermush, which is exactly what it sounds like, sliced thin and fried crisp. It’s made to go with runny yolk eggs and bread. Once you’ve been initiated, or perhaps re-acquainted with livermush, proclaim your achievement with a T-shirt saying as much. They’re available at the register. 

For dinner be sure to make a reservation at Crippen’s Country Inn and Restaurant, which routinely wins awards for its cuisine. The chefs there have cooked dinner at the James Beard House in New York City and more recently won the title of “Best Dish in North Carolina,” presented by the N.C. Department of Agriculture. 

Don’t miss Best Cellar located in The Inn at Ragged Gardens, where casual gourmet is at its peak. The warm, historic atmosphere allows for both a romantic dinner for two as well as larger groups with seating dispersed through the arts and crafts period house. Entrees are served with a house salad and rice, either of which should be forgone in exchange for a larger serving of house vegetables with your meal—not to bolster the serving size but because they are so good. If you’re a fan of duck or have been turned off by duck because of its fatty and greasy texture, order the duck here. The half bird is roasted and served tender and moist with perfectly crispy, salty skin. Use the red raspberry sauce sparingly. Other menu highlights include the Filet Oscar and the corn meal dusted, pan-fried trout. 

When all the shopping in Blowing Rock has left you tired, rest your feet at the downtown park while sitting on a bench. Engage in people-watching or burn off a few calories with the kids on the playground. As a beautifully situated green space, the park attracts visitors even on cool days. It also makes an excellent place for those who are not interested in shopping to spend some time with a good book—pick one up at the tiny Blowing Rock library on Main Street (where used materials are for sale) or at Tucker’s on Main, an independent and locally owned bookstore.

Splendor to end the day

Blowing Rock is the kind of place where everybody knows your name. Nowhere is this intimacy more evident than at Canyons Historic Restaurant and Bar. Pull up a seat and strike up a conversation with the bartender or ask your servers how they came to Blowing Rock. There are life-time residents interspersed with Appalachian State University students working their way through college. 

Officially established as “The Bark” in 1936, the cliffside location has taken turns as a speakeasy, brothel, dancehall, casino, grill, grocery store, and tavern. Known as Canyons since 2001, the family-friendly restaurant and bar is a popular place to tune in to ASU games (the football team is a perennial powerhouse nationally). Here you  may also enjoy a pint of Blowing Rock High Country Ale from Boone Brewing Company. Canyons hosts live music Thursday through Sunday, with Thursdays bringing karaoke singers to the stage. 

For the real show, grab a seat on Canyons’ outdoor deck for the sunset. The sky turns sultry shades of amber, pink and blue as the sun sinks behind the Blue Ridge Mountains and silhouette peaks appear, including Grandfather Mountain, Mount Mitchell, Table Rock and Hawksbill. 

The Blowing Rock Jazz Society brings live music to the Meadowbrook Inn on the second Sunday of each month. Concertgoers can make an evening of it with dinner and drinks or just coffee and dessert from Meadowbrook purchased separately. Upcoming performances include saxophonist Jack Wilkins in April, the society’s 10th anniversary concert featuring big band singer Lynn Roberts and pianist Bob Alberti in June, and the return of vibraphonist Jon Metzger in October. 

Blowing Rock Jazz Society concerts attract a mix of local residents and visitors young and old. Admission is $15 for the general public, $5 for students, and free to Jazz Society members. Call 828.295.4300 for reservations, and be sure to arrive early for good seating. 

Late night dining can be found downtown at Six Pence Pub, which features British specialties such as bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, beef Guinness and mushroom pie, and pot roast. Pick an import pint to complement your dish. 

Pretty, oh so pretty

Blowing Rock is North Carolina’s prettiest small town, according to a poll of 32 of the state’s journalists. The Crown of the Blue Ridge won out in a close race with the village of Pinehurst in the scenic Sandhills area. 

The journalists selected their top 10 towns from a list of 45 nominated towns from the mountains to the coast. The towns were singled out for their charm, unique settings, landscapes, historic homes, architecture, character and commitment to preservation, among other factors. In order to be eligible, a town had to have a population under 15,000. Blowing Rock received the honor in December. 

“We’ve always believed that Blowing Rock was the prettiest town anywhere, but when travel writers who have been all over the world agree, it validates what we’ve been saying all along,” said Tracy Brown, executive director of the Blowing Rock Tourism Development Authority. “It’s a credit to the people who work hard to make Blowing Rock a special place. Shopkeepers, residents, town officials and employees now have one more reason to be proud of the work they do every day.”

The Legend of The Blowing Rock

The rock outcrop known as The Blowing Rock offers spectacular views of undulating mountains and forest wilderness. Located 3,000 feet above the Johns River Gorge, the rock ledge looks out over Hawksbill Mountain and Table Rock, the gorge to the southwest, Grandfather Mountain, and Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi. 

According to the legend of The Blowing Rock, a Chickasaw chief relocated his beautiful daughter to the mountains because he feared a white man’s admiration for her. An Indian mother raised the young maiden near The Blowing Rock. One day the young girl was sitting on the rocky outcrop daydreaming when a handsome Indian brave passed her way. She playfully shot an arrow in his direction to attract his attention. Her trick worked. The    Indian brave began to court her and the two fell in love. 

One day a strange red sky forewarned the Indian brave of trouble. He felt he must return to his own tribe. However, the beautiful maiden pleaded with him not to leave her. Torn between duty and love, the Indian brave leapt from the rocky outcrop where he first met his maiden. Grief-stricken, the maiden prayed to the Great Spirit for her lover’s return.  Suddenly a great gust of wind lifted the Indian brave back up to the rock where he landed safely in the maiden’s arms. From that day forward, the winds blew and blew. On winter days, visitors to The Blowing Rock can watch the snow fall upside down in the great winds. In the fall, you can watch leaves float upwards.

Fire on the Rock

Knife-wielding gourmands of the High Country will compete against one another for the title of who’s best in this year’s Fire on the Rock Chefs Challenge, which launches into quarterfinals on March 23. 

The contest pits chefs from area restaurants against one another in a live cook-off at Crippen’s Country Inn and Restaurant in Blowing Rock. Each meal features a secret ingredient, much like the famed television classic Iron Chef. 

“The chefs love it because it’s something different from your everyday grind,” said Jimmy Crippen, owner of Crippen’s Country Inn and Restaurant and competition organizer. 

Diners judge the head-to-head competition on a six-course tasting menu priced at $40 per meal. When they arrive they get a crash course on being a food critic and score each dish as it is served.

The contest began as part of the Blue Ridge Wine and Food Festival as a way to raise funds for charity. The name “Fire on the Rock” references the local fire department, which benefits from the competition, and also refers to the rock outcrop for which the town is named. 

Six chefs participated in the first year of the contest. Five years later, 20 chefs from five counties are testing their skills. In the preliminary rounds of cooking, which began in February, chefs were selected by lottery. Teams of three arrive at Crippen’s at noon the day of the competition, learn what will be their meal’s featured ingredient, and get to work on their menus. Teams working side-by-side in the kitchen must agree on the order in which all their dishes will be served and then wait for the diners’ word on which team advances.  

The semi-finals are held in conjunction with the Blue Ridge Wine and Food Festival at the Hayes Performing Arts Center on April 17. Winning chefs move on to the grand finale on April 18. Last year’s competition resulted in a tie. 

In addition to the Fire on the Rock Chef’s Challenge, the Blue Ridge Wine and Food Festival includes wine seminars, winemaker luncheons and dinners, late night activities in downtown Blowing Rock, and a VIP Fundraiser Gala to benefit charity. 

Tickets to Fire on the Rock are available by contacting the Blowing Rock Chamber of Commerce. For more information visit www.fireontherock.com.

Chetola Resort: a family-friendly base for exploring Blowing Rock

Chetola’s history dates back to 1846 when Lot Estes purchased 100 acres to build his family home. Estes named the home Silverlake, a name that stuck for nearly 50 years. When William Stringfellow purchased the home in 1892, he renamed it Chetola, which means, “haven of rest” in the Cherokee language. Chetola came into the hands of J. Luther Snyder in 1936. The Coca-Cola salesman, known as the “Coca-Cola King of the Carolinas,” hosted parties and often invited the entire community to join his family on the estate. When Snyder died in 1957, the estate passed to his family, who in turn sold the property. It eventually became a vacation destination open to the public.

In 2004, the original Manor House became the Bob Timberlake Inn at Chetola Resort. Timberlake is an internationally known North Carolina artist specializing in realist paintings. Downtown Blowing Rock is home to the Bob Timberlake Gallery, which features his artwork, furnishings and other décor. 

In addition to the Timberlake Inn, the Chetola property offers nearly 100 condominiums and 42 rooms and suites at the Chetola Lodge. For pampering and relaxation, visit The Spa at Chetola, which opened in October 2009. It provides a variety of treatments including massage, skin care and teeth whitening. The spa’s cozy stonework lounge offers complimentary snacks and drinks for visitors to enjoy while they relax wrapped in a soft robe and slippers in front of the fireplace. One need not be a guest of the resort to enjoy the spa. 

Resort amenities include several special opportunities for recreation and relaxation. Chetola is the only Orvis-endorsed fly-fishing lodge in North Carolina, offering customized trips for anglers. From April 15 to Nov. 25, 2010, stay at Chetola and rent a Porsche to cruise along the High Country’s curvy roads. The resort also offers whitewater rafting packages and caving trips. 

On-site recreation includes an indoor, heated swimming pool, a whirlpool, sauna, horseshoe pit, sunbathing deck, hiking trails, and paddleboats, canoes and fishing at the lake. There’s also a playground and activity room for the children.

For more information about Chetola Resort, visit www.chetola.com or call 800.243.8652.