Asheville's Craft Beer Explosion
Anna Wong worried at times about her husband’s decision to come out of retirement to launch a brewery in Asheville, N.C. “Do you have any idea what you’re doing?” she asked the former engineer. But Oscar was persistent, and in eight years Highland Brewing Company finally broke even.
The first legal brewery to open in Asheville since the Prohibition, Highland Brewing surpassed 30,000 barrels of beer last year—25 times its 1994 production. Today Highland offers five year-round beers—St. Teresa’s Pale Ale, Gaelic Ale (the best seller), Kashmir IPA (British styled), Oatmeal Porter and Black Mocha Stout. Seasonal brews include the popular Cold Mountain Winter Ale and Thunderstruck Coffee Porter, among others.
The 73-year-old Wong holds status as somewhat of a rock star in the Asheville craft brewing scene since he helped blaze the path that’s led to a growing interest in regional craft beers, as well as, Asheville’s claim to fame as Beer City U.S.A. for four straight years as the result of an online poll conducted by the Examiner.com.
“I’m a very fortunate pioneer,” Wong said. “It was the right time in the right category. My thought was we’d become the top in the area with maybe one or two other breweries opening up. But there are ten, soon to be twelve, in Asheville alone.
“I see Western North Carolina becoming a real brewing Mecca,” he continues. “The fact that New Belgium and Sierra Nevada are moving here shows there is a good water supply, accepting community and quality of life. That’s what happened in Colorado and Portland.”
Heading East
Two of the nation’s top craft breweries, New Belgium, based in Fort Collins, Colo., and Sierra Nevada, based in Chico, Calif., are moving full steam ahead on plans to expand their production with new breweries in Asheville and Mills River, respectively.
“Our hope is to do some test batches later on this summer and ideally be producing beer and getting it out the door this fall,” says Ryan Arnold, communications manager for Sierra Nevada.
A small portion of Sierra Nevada’s 180-acre site in Mills River will be used for the production facility. The majority of land will remain untouched and in its natural state.
“We’ll look at how to incorporate that into outdoor recreation,” Arnold said. “We will have a tap room and restaurant, river access and hiking trails, but those items won’t start surfacing until 2014.”
Once the tap room and other things get cranked up, Arnold estimates Sierra Nevada will employ 80 to 100 people in Mills River, with an additional 40 to 60 part-time jobs.
At the site of New Belgium’s facility in Asheville’s River Arts District, spokesman Brian Simpson says the company is finishing up deconstruction of old buildings on the property. “We are working with Old World Architectural Salvage in Asheville to reuse and repurpose as much as possible,” he said.
The next step focuses on flood plain mitigation, with ground breaking expected to be held in September with an estimated completion date of January 2015.
The site will include a 400,000-barrel production facility, brewhouse, and bottling line. “We’ll also have a tasting facility called the Liquid Center which is an opportunity for folks to try our beers, plus on-site tours, and an open space—green pasture area for events down the road,” says Simpson.
“Quality of life was really the determining factor,” Simpson said, when asked how Asheville was chosen for their new brewery. “It’s a great community that appreciates craft brewing. There’s great quality water and it’s centrally located, which makes it perfect for distributing up and down the East Coast.”
Simpson said the company looks forward to collaborating on new varieties with other breweries in the area. While their main production will focus on the core products, they will make some interesting smaller batch beers in Asheville.
Down the road in Brevard, Oskar Blues, based in Longmont, Colo., opened the doors of a new facility in December 2012. While Brevard is 45 minutes from Asheville, the company has found a way to appeal to Asheville’s craft beer fans by offering free trolley rides to its brewery. Every Saturday and Sunday, the Oskar Blues trolley picks up riders on a first come, first serve basis in front of the Aloft Hotel at 51 Biltmore Avenue in Asheville. Aloft is located right across from Barley’s Taproom—one of the town’s best-known places for a pint. Pick up is at 5 p.m. on Saturday with participants dropped back in Asheville at 9 p.m. On Sunday pick up is at 3 p.m. with drop off at 7 p.m.
Dodie Stephens, senior communications manager at the Asheville Convention & Visitors Bureau, sees the craft beer scene growth as an acknowledgement of the industry’s strength in the region. “The fact that several respected national craft beer brands have chosen the Asheville area further solidifies Western N.C. as a brewing stronghold in the east,” she said. “It’s no coincidence these breweries have planned significant tourism and experiential components.”
“Some say we’ve reached critical mass, but I don’t believe we’re there yet,” said Julie Atallah who, with her husband Jason, owns Bruisin’ Ales beer store in downtown Asheville. “Time will tell the impact of big players like New Belgium, Sierra Nevada and Oskar Blues, but it does mean jobs, and the industry, as a whole, is good for the community.”
Nationwide Trend
Latest figures from the Brewers Association, the largest organization of brewers in the U.S., indicate there were 2,403 total breweries across the country in operation for some or all of 2012. This is the largest number of brewers since before the Prohibition. The retail dollar value for craft brews in 2012 was an estimated $10.2 billion, up from $8.7 billion in 2011. Craft brewers sold an estimated 13,235,917 barrels in 2012, an increase over the 11,467,337 barrels in 2011.
“Beer has been a big part of U.S. history. Prohibition got in the way of that,” Atallah said. “Beer never went away, but many styles were lost. I like to think of the resurgence of craft beer breweries as a ‘renaissance.’ There’s a new awareness and creativity and the craft beer resurgence follows the trend to bring things back to the local level. It’s nice to drink a beer that came from five miles down the road.”
One of those favorite breweries “down the road” for many Asheville locals, as well as tourists, is The Wedge, owned by Tim Schaller, a past president of the Asheville Brewers Alliance. The brewery is located in Asheville’s trendy River Arts District.
The late John Payne, who once owned the building where The Wedge is housed, used to hang out with Schaller. The two would frequent Dirty Jacks bar—now part of Green Man Brewery in downtown—and they envisioned a similar place, “an old man’s bar with no TV and about 20 to 30 people sitting around voicing their opinion.”
As beer lovers tasted the brews, word spread and the crowds grew larger. The rising exposure of the River Arts District also attracted new people. “People kept coming,” says Schaller. “They would sit on rocks in the parking lot so we’ve had to adapt to that.
“We’re not big in terms of production,” he adds. “That allows us to make really good beer. It’s less pretentious, but good quality. People come in to have a conversation. That’s a big deal right now in an age where everyone is texting and no one is talking to each other.”
One of the The Wedge’s beers received a nod on CNN blog’s “Best beers of 2012.” The Vadim Bora Russian Imperial Stout honors the memory of the internationally known sculptor and artist who lived in Asheville and suddenly passed away in 2011.
Asheville’s Emerging Brewery District
The newest buzz in Asheville’s craft beer scene is coming from an area of town known as the South Slope. Green Man Brewery, which is the second oldest in Asheville, has been flying under the radar a bit for years at its unassuming location on Buxton Avenue, but everything is about to change.
Green Man, owned by Dennis Thies, has gone through a massive expansion with a new 30-barrel system and 12-ounce bottle production. Thies also purchased another building at the corner of Buxton and Lexington as well as an adjacent lot where he plans to build an 8,200-foot warehouse. The tasting room once known as Dirty Jacks now features a 10-barrel brewing system, a laid back bar in a welcoming environment and outdoor patio.
“What’s happening is quite epic,” Thiese said. “They used to say you couldn’t swing a yoga teacher without hitting a massage therapist in Asheville. Now, it’s you can’t swing a brewer without hitting another brewer.
“Certainly with competition, it’s been like the Las Vegas strip of breweries, but we don’t worry about that,” Thiese said. “We will just focus on what we do. We feel like we have a brand that’s important to Asheville. We’ll never compromise the quality of our beer or our brand. In a nutshell, it’s the craft beer lovers of Asheville who have enabled all of this.”
New Kids on the Block
Burial Beer is one of the newcomers to the South Slope area. The three partners—husband and wife team Doug and Jessica Reiser and Tim Gormley—plan to open what they call a “nano-brewery” by early June.
“We’re starting with a 30-gallon or 1 barrel system,” Jessica Reiser said. “Most production breweries are doing at least seven barrels, so we’re starting out small.”
They are looking for two to eight acres of land outside of Asheville where they can expand their operation. Right now, though, they are focused on making their mark at their location on Collier Avenue.
“We’re right around the corner from Green Man,” Jessica Reiser said. “We feel really lucky to be close to them. They’ve been really supportive of our tiny little operation. We’ve gone to them for advice and information. They have such a great business model.”
Similarly, Steph Weber says she and her husband, Tim, can’t believe their luck. They made plans to open Twin Leaf Brewery at the corner of Coxe and Banks Avenues before hearing about other South Slope activity.
“We chose the spot because we like the laid-back, open feel of that area of downtown, and the building is absolutely perfect for a brewery,” Steph said. “After we chose it, we started hearing all the news about the up-and-coming South Slope and all the new businesses and growth coming to the area.”
Steph and Tim are both mechanical engineers by training. They began making their own home brews right after college in 2006 and soon began dreaming of one day opening their own brewery. When they realized they were miserable in the corporate world, they decided the time was right last summer to move from southeast Pennsylvania to Asheville and launch their business.
The couple received certification from the American Brewers Guild after completing an intensive Brewing Science and Engineering Program in 2011. “Tim built our computer-controlled automated pilot system, and we’ve brewed around 250 test batches over the last 7 years,” Steph said.
Hi-Wire Brewing is up and running in space once occupied by Craggie Brewing on Hilliard Avenue. Adam Charnack and Chris Frosaker are the two primary owners, and they’re excited to introduce Asheville to what they call “sessionable” brews. “These are craft beers that are not overly alcoholic,” explains Charnack. “This allows people to have sessions where they can have more than one or two at a time.”
The brand features a circus theme with hand drawn artwork and four year round brews—the Hi-Wire Lager, Prime Time Pale Ale, Hi-Pitch IPA and a brown ale called Bed of Nails Brown. They’ll also create an eccentric line up of seasonal beers.
“We think people will find our beers approachable and find our brand fun,” Charnack said. “2013 is going to be crazy and we’re excited. I firmly believe Asheville will become the east coast capital of craft brewing.”
Brewing frenzy
The boom in craft brewing isn’t limited to what’s going on in Asheville, N.C. Brewers in other parts of WNC and East Tennessee are also jumping on the bandwagon.
“We’re not quite at the pace of Asheville, but we’re catching up,” says Marty Velas, director of brewing operations of Smoky Mountain Brewery, which has locations in Pigeon Forge, Gatlinburg, Turkey Creek and Maryville.
Smoky Mountain Brewery produces ten regular beers and four seasonal varieties. The staff also experiments at times with one-off flavors. Of the regular offerings, the Mountain Light (pale, American style lager) is the best seller, followed by the Velas Hellas (German styled lager) and the Cherokee Ale (amber ale).
“I did my training in Bavaria,” says Velas. “We specialize in lager beers and brew them without preservatives. It’s making the craft brewing industry so popular—people tasting beer at the source. Beer doesn’t age well. The closer you can get it released from the brewery, the better it is.”
Part of the reason for Tennesee’s delay in brewery industry growth has been the state’s regulatory atmosphere. “We’ve actually had some laws changed in the past couple of months,” Velas said.
One issue was the Tennessee Alcoholic Beverage Commission’s restriction on “to-go” beer sales, which Velas says is being addressed. Taxing was another issue. “The taxing had been punitive to small brewers,” Velas said. “Craft beer is a higher cost per unit to produce, but we were taxed on those numbers instead of a flat excise tax.” A new law changes the tax rate to volume, making it the same for all brewers.
Velas says among tourists who visit Smoky Mountain Brewery, many say they build their trips around a night or two at the brewery. They enjoy the fresh beer and the music. The brewery also offers sales of 12 ounce bottles featuring eight flavors as well as growler jugs that are filled right at the tap and mini-kegs.
Learning the Craft
With all the interest in the craft beer industry, new programs are popping up at area tech schools and colleges. Asheville-Bumcombe Technical College in Asheville has added craft brewing classes to its slate of offerings as well as classes in beer management and distribution and sales. At Appalachian State University in Boone, N.C., students are signing up for a new B.S. degree in Fermentation Sciences or earning a B.S. in Chemistry with a fermentation concentration.
“The industry is growing quite rapidly and I think that growth will continue for some time,” says Dr. Brett Taubman, assistant professor in the Department of Chemistry at Appalachian and head of the High Country Brew Fest held on the ASU campus each September.
“Our program is designed to accommodate growth in many industries and gives students a very hands on experience,” he continues. They can pretty much hit the ground running when they graduate.”
One student, Nathan Kelischek, has already opened his own brewery in Boone—Appalachian Mountain Brewery. Kelischek ran the High Country Brew Fest’s pizza and beer pairing class last year, leading a group of more than thirty eager drinkers and eaters through rounds including Duvel paired with Mellow Mushroom’s Philosopher’s Pie featuring an olive oil and garlic base with grilled steak, portobello mushrooms, artichoke hearts, and Kalamata olives; Stone Brewing’s Arrogant Bastard, and American Strong ale, partnered with the aptly named Mighty Meaty; Sam Smith Oatmeal Stout with Funky Q. Chicken, a barbecue sauce based pizza; and the floral and hoppy Bell’s Two Hearted Ale with Maui Wowie, a pesto pie with pineapple, jerk chicken, and banana peppers. Kelischek’s own Appalachian Mountain Brewery is open on Boone Creek Drive and offers Long Leaf IPA, 163 Pale Ale, King’s Kolsch, and Black Gold Porter.
ASU’s program is in high demand, but Taubman is quick to point out that it’s about far more than fun. Students graduating from the program have gone on to work at major breweries across the industry and are trained to do a lot more than just drink a cold one.
“We’ve got about a dozen students in the major right now with the same number in the chemistry degree program with the fermentation concentration,” says Taubman. “Next fall we expect close to 50 majors. It’s a very rigorous scientific program—not just for people who want to brew beer. This is for people who want to be fermentation scientists. They could go to work in many industries from environmental consulting to alternative fuels to pharmaceuticals.”
Join the Fun
From tasting rooms at the breweries to area restaurants and bars featuring craft beers on tap,
as well as festivals and special events, there are many ways to enjoy Asheville’s beer scene and to develop an expanded appreciation for the craft beers being produced. Here’s a quick look at some things to put on your craft brewing bucket list:
Beer City Fest: This annual event takes place in downtown Asheville on the Roger McGuire Green. Dozens of breweries will be pouring their brews, plus live music. Asheville Beer Week leads up to this festival and offers a variety of tastings, dinners, speakers and other beer-related fun.ashevillebeerweek.com
Brewgrass Festival: There’s always a mad scramble for tickets once they go on sale for this festival. More than 40 different breweries will set up booths where they will distribute samples of more than 120 different beers. Set this year for September 21, noon to 7 p.m. in Martin Luther King Jr. Park in downtown Asheville. brewgrassfestival.com
Book a Tour: Asheville Brews Cruise provides an easy way to visit a variety of breweries, tour the facilities, sample the beer and learn more about the history of why Asheville has risen to Beer City status. ashevillebrewscruise.com
Buy a Book: Anne Fitten Glenn, the former beer columnist for Asheville’s Mountain Xpress and current regional marketing rep for Oskar Blues brewery in Brevard, authored a comprehensive guide called Asheville Beer: An Intoxicating History of Mountain Brewing. Published in 2012, the book details the history of beer in Asheville and how it has evolved, along with information about area breweries. She’s @brewgasm on Twitter and has a website of the same name: brewgasm.com