Five and dine: Asheville’s Buffalo Nickel

When minted in 1913 the Buffalo nickel had been commissioned as part of an effort to aesthetically improve American coinage but drew protest for its inability to strike true within the mechanisms of coin-operated machines.

The Buffalo nickel’s history is an allegory for West Asheville’s new restaurant that bears its name. Beautifully designed with hardwood floors, graceful chandeliers, reclaimed wood used to build the bathroom and bar, Buffalo Nickel is one of the most attractive establishments in West Asheville and exudes more warmth than many of downtown’s hip eateries. Couples would enjoy their date night or friends their low-key get together with drinks and a game of pool on Buffalo Nickel’s second floor. 

Drawing from Northeastern American cuisine—pierogis, gnocchi, challah, octopus, little neck clams (chef Ryan Kline is from Hastings, PA and sous chef Brandon Miller is from Akron, OH)—the menu nonetheless exhibits a split personality with its other offering of deviled eggs, chicken liver mousse, scrapple, chicken pot pie and regional flavors incorporating Lusty Monk mustard, Smiling Hara Tempeh and Carolina Gold rice. 

The pierogi appetizers could sing with a filling that incorporates a dash of cheddar and green onions, a more crisp pan fry, a bit of lightly cooked and still crunchy kale, and a good spoonful of the otherwise $5 side of golden beets with mint and citronette. The same goes for the gnocchi plate, which has great flavor, but needs more for the tooth to do. Given Chef Kline’s talent, look for this young restaurant's menu to mature. 

Buffalo Nickel is located at 747 West Haywood Road, Asheville, N.C., 28806; 828.575.2844 or buffalonickelavl.com.