Hot Springs, Damascus and Harper's Ferry offer adventure along Appalachian Trail

Hot Springs, North Carolina

For centuries the 600-person town of Hot Springs, North Carolina, has drawn tourists.

First they came for the purported healing powers of the mineral water that bubbles at 100-plus degrees—a natural phenomenon first discovered by Native Americans—here at the confluence of the French Broad River and Spring Creek.

By 1778, colonists were sending their sick and lame over the mountains to “take to the waters,” and in 1831 the first in a series of elegant hotels opened on the site of the springs.

These days, Hot Springs also offers the healing power of civilization for some 2,000 annual Appalachian Trail hikers.

As the southernmost trail town—aka the first outpost of creature comforts on a northbound thru-hike—the white blazes lead right down Main Street. It also makes a one-of-a-kind weekend getaway, whether or not hiking is at the top of your agenda.

What to do: Gone are the days of marble baths and sprawling banquet halls in this little mountain town, but the Hot Springs Resort & Spa still offers comfortable accommodations and year-round alfresco soaks in private mineral baths. Today, the legendary mineral water flows through Jacuzzi-style hot tubs on covered wooden decks scattered along the secluded banks of Spring Creek and the French Broad River. Whether staying at the resort or elsewhere, visitors can book hot tub sessions by the hour. Deluxe tubs include heat lamps and more privacy. BYO snacks and drinks.

Where to stay: Hot Springs Resort & Spa offers standard rooms as well as suites, cabins, camping, and RV hookups. Some suites and cabins include private hot tubs fed by the mineral water. B&B lovers and history buffs retreat to country-style inns such as the Mountain Magnolia Inn, a restored Victorian mansion partially modeled after the grand 1886 resort that once stood here.

Other town highlights: Bluff Mountain Outfitters is a one-stop shop for mountain lovers. On the street level, commodities range from bulk food and freeze-dried meals to souvenir T-shirts, books by regional authors, and, yes, outdoor gear. Upstairs, there’s a pinball machine as well as a room plastered in trail maps.

In the historic Iron Horse Station Inn building across from the railroad tracks, ArtiSUN Gallery provides just about any other commodity you might desire during a weekend here: coffee drinks and bottles of wine, tea and candles, local art and crystals.

A favorite for live music, Spring Creek Tavern & Inn stands out with a covered deck overlooking the creek and elevated bar food such as the $17 appetite buster called the AT Burger—a triple-decker with cheddar and a whopping 18 ounces of angus chuck.

Hit the trail: Though technically a stroll down Main Street counts as a pass on the AT, hikers shouldn’t skip following the trail across and along the French Broad, then climbing the river bluffs up to Lover’s Leap for a spectacular view over the valley. And only 20 miles southwest, about 45 minutes away by car, is one of the AT’s most scenic spots, Max Patch. The trail traverses the grassy summit of a 4,629-foot-tall bald, where 360-degree panoramas take in the Great Smoky Mountains to the south and Mount Mitchell to the east. Section hikers can explore the bald on a loop hike of 1.4 or 2.4 miles long.

When to go: During April, thru-hikers and AT lovers convene here for the three-day Hot Springs Community Trailfest. June brings the Bluff Mountain Music Festival, July’s Wild Goose Festival celebrates social justice, and September buzzes with the French Broad Brew Fest.

To plan your trip, see hotspringsnc.org.

Damascus, Virginia

The Appalachian Trail is but one of the beloved paths to traverse “Trail Town, USA.”

In this close-knit outdoors-loving town in southwest Virginia, there’s also the Virginia Creeper Trail along an historic rail bed, the Trans-America National Bicycle Trail, the Iron Mountain Trail, and the Virginia Birding and Wildlife Trail.

Plus, just 30 miles away is the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area, home to Virginia’s highest peak, hundreds of miles of hiking, and a roaming herd of wild ponies.

Each May, this town of 800 residents explodes in population, attracting more than 20,000 hikers and outdoors lovers for its three-day Appalachian Trail Days Festival, May 19–21, this year.

“Damascus is the one place in the world that has struck the perfect balance between an outdoor-recreation vibe and the ‘Mayberry’ lifestyle,” says Adam Woodson, founder of the Damascus Brewery, which makes 45 types of beer and welcomes all ages with free bar games from darts, to foosball and corn hole and live music on Saturday nights.

Beyond the trail: Fuel up with coffee and breakfast at Mojo’s Trailside Cafe, and reserve a bike and shuttle ride up to Whitetop Station, the highest point of the Virginia Creeper Trail.

“The 17-mile ride to town is through some of the most beautiful land the Appalachians have to offer,” Woodson says.

Once back in town, he recommends riding downtown for lunch at Hey Joe’s with an order of fish tacos or an “everything burrito.”

Before unwinding with a craft beer at his Damascus Brewery, browse downtown’s antiques and artisan shops and stop in at Mount Rogers Outfitters to plan any hiking adventures. In addition to doling out trail tips, this AT institution offers gear and hiking services such as a hostel, long-term parking, and shuttles to trailheads within a 100-mile radius of town.

Hit the trail: In town, pick up the Iron Mountain Trail—originally part of the Appalachian Trail—and follow its yellow blazes for 2 miles, crossing streams and winding uphill in the footsteps of early thru-hikers such as Gene Espy and Emma “Grandma” Gatewood.

At the sign, take a short blue-blazed trail to the AT, then follow the white blazes for another 2 miles as you cross a ridge with sweeping views over Damascus. Once you reach the Virginia Creeper Trail, follow it back down to town.

To plan your trip, see visitdamascus.org.

Harper's Ferry, Virginia

You know what a thru-hiker is. But what about a flip-flop hiker? No, it’s not a hiker with questionable footwear.

Rather, the memorable term refers to someone who hikes the entire AT by starting and ending somewhere in the middle of the Appalachian Trail. If that sounds like cheating, rest assured that the Appalachian Trail Conservancy is such a fan of the unconventional route, last April it launched the Flip-Flop Festival in Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.

Last year, an estimated 3,377 thru-hikers began in Georgia, the majority in March and April. Flip-flop hikes help spread out the crowd, according to Laurie Potteiger, a spokesperson for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy.

As the headquarters of the ATC and the “psychological midpoint” of the trail, Harpers Ferry also stands out, Potteiger says, as “one of the most scenic and historic locations on the entire East Coast” at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers.

“Thomas Jefferson said the view from the rock outcropping that was later named after him was ‘worth a voyage across the Atlantic,’” she says.

Town highlights: Harpers Ferry is the only trail town to also be a national historic park. Attractions in this pre-Civil War-era town range from a dry goods store and candy shop to the brick fire engine house where abolitionist John Brown and his followers barricaded themselves during their doomed raid in 1859. Just outside the park boundary, adjacent to Harpers Ferry’s Lower Town, cafes and restaurants offer everything from ice cream to filet mignon. Twelve miles away, historic Shepherdstown is worth a visit for its college-town charm. Join locals on the patio of Blue Moon Cafe.

Hit the trail: To make the most out of a visit to this historic stretch of the AT, start at the ATC visitors center. Check out its exhibits, books, maps, and souvenirs, and be sure to chat with staff and volunteers, who are eager to answer any questions about Harpers Ferry and area hiking. From there, the AT crosses the Potomac and follows a three-mile portion of the historic C&O Towpath along the river in Maryland—“the easiest three miles of the entire AT” says Potteiger.

Or, for more of a challenge, albeit one that leaves the AT, a climb up Maryland Heights rewards hikers with an eagle’s-eye view over the town, the rivers’ confluence, and the spine of the Blue Ridge Mountains. Interpretive signs along the way tell the story of Civil War battles fought from the mountain. “Anyone who visits the historic downtown and walks across the footbridge over the Potomac River will have walked the AT in two states,” Potteiger notes.

To plan your trip, see historicharpersferry.com.