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On the Trail in the Smokies

Caldwell Fork Trail to Boogerman Trail

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Of the many colorful place names in Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Boogerman Trail likely takes a back seat to none.

Stories vary on exactly how young Robert Palmer acquired his memorable nickname. Not in dispute, however, is the fact that it happened in school in Cataloochee Valley. According to one version, when Robert’s teacher asked him what he wanted to be when he grew up, he replied, “I want to be the Boogerman.” A second version holds that upon being asked his name by the teacher on his first day of school, a bashful Robert put his head on his desk and responded “Boogerman.” In any case, Robert Palmer did indeed become known as Boogerman, and the path traversing his farmland as Boogerman Trail.

Although Boogerman Trail is usually referred to as a loop, its route is basically a half circle. True, it does connect with Caldwell Fork Trail at two junctions about two miles apart, but Boogerman Trail never closes on itself. Combined with sections of Caldwell Fork Trail, Boogerman Trail instead offers a 7¾-mile route more akin to a lollipop or lasso.

Caldwell Fork Trail begins with a rustically elegant footbridge spanning lovely Palmer Creek. Handsomely constructed with stone steps and footings and a long, planed log, it also features double-wooden handrails that make the wide creek crossing safer and less intimidating. The footbridge provides a sharp contrast to some of Caldwell Fork’s decaying foot logs, and especially to stream crossings that require fording because former logs have been washed out.

The first part of Caldwell Fork Trail is easy and pleasant. On mostly level terrain, it courses through a mixed open forest, featuring many tall white pines. After about one-third mile, the trail bends to the left to run along the west side of Caldwell Fork before crossing the stream on another sturdy reconstructed footbridge. It then reaches an unassuming junction with Boogerman Trail, where you turn left to rock-hop across Palmer Branch (not Palmer Creek). Here the trail begins a steady climb in the general direction of Cataloochee Divide, eventually attaining an elevation above 3,500 feet.

About halfway along the four-mile-long trail, the path passes the site of the former home and farm of Boogerman Palmer. Because the Boogerman never allowed logging on his land, you’ll see many large trees along the way, as well as the sad sight of numerous dead chestnut trees killed by the blight. Next is a stiff, mostly straight ascent to a vantage point along Den Ridge.

Soon you begin a cardio climb to the trail’s apex, where there’s a wintertime view of mighty Mount Sterling. You then start to descend on a tread that is rougher and rockier for most of its remaining course to an upper junction with Caldwell Fork Trail. After the grade eases at an old homesite to the right of the trail, there’s a long, low rock wall that has stood the test of time despite lacking mortar. Just down the trail is a large hollowed-out yellow poplar, so much a prototype for a bear den that it may as well have a welcome mat out front.

Boogerman Trail begins to play tag with Snake Branch, crossing it in a few places. Finally, you negotiate one last crossing of the branch before it disappears into Caldwell Fork.

If you turn right on Caldwell Fork Trail for the 2¾-mile return to the trailhead, be prepared for several stream crossings that require fords. In addition, some of the foot logs still in place are missing handrails. Especially with high water, you may opt to retrace your steps on Boogerman Trail, adding slightly more than two (dry) miles to the return trip. But surely Boogerman Palmer, bashful or not, wouldn’t object.

About the author: Ben Anderson is author of Smokies Chronicle: A Year of Hiking in Great Smoky Mountains National Park (blairpub.com).

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