Four Hikes, Four Experiences

Autumn is a fantastic time of year to hike the trails in Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The daytime temperatures are wonderfully cool and the air is clear of haze allowing for vistas that extend to the horizon. Most important, the fall foliage magically transforms our mountains from green peaks into rolling waves of red, orange, and gold.

How much magic is involved in the dramatic display of fall colors? Certainly, luck plays a role in both the intensity and duration of the fall foliage. Many factors including temperature, soil moisture, and wind also play a huge part.

Biologists have determined that the two most important factors are the great variety of trees that live in the southern Appalachians, and the change in day length as the season shifts from summer into fall. These mountains are one of the most biologically diverse regions in the temperate world. The Appalachians are home to over 150 species of trees and shrubs. That biodiversity provides the huge palette of colors.

The trigger that starts the cascade of events that result in fall colors is the change in day length. Deciduous trees and shrubs (those that lose their leaves every autumn) are very sensitive to the length of the dark period every 24 hours. When nights reach a critical length, the cells near the juncture of the leaf and stem divide rapidly, forming a corky layer of cells that block the flow of nutrients from leaf to branch. This leads to the breakdown of the green colored chlorophyll in the leaf and reveals the other pigments such as xanthophylls (yellow) and cartenoids (orange), causing the leaf to change color.

Temperature then joins the show. Cool temperatures and abundant sunlight causes the chlorophyll to be destroyed more rapidly, allowing the red, orange, and yellow pigments to shine through. This explains why the highest elevations change color first. As the season progresses and the cooler temperatures move down the mountains, the fall colors follow. A growing season with plenty of rain followed by a drier, cool, sunny autumn with warm days and frostless nights provides for the brightest colors. Lack of high winds and rain in the autumn prolongs the display.

Expect to see the color shift at the highest elevations (above 5,000 feet) in early October. By mid-October the fall colors have moved down to around 3000-4000 feet. By early November the show fills our lowest valleys. With that in mind, here are four hikes ranging in elevation that provide a variety of perspectives on our fall colors.

• Appalachian Trail Newfound Gap to Charles Bunion, N.C./Tenn. (about 8 miles roundtrip) This is a moderately difficult trail with awesome high-elevation views into both North Carolina and Tennessee. With a maximum elevation just over 6,000 feet you will feel like you are on top of the world. A four-mile walk ends at Charles Bunion, a huge stone outcropping that provides an incredible panoramic view of the mountains.
• Flat Creek Trail, N.C. (about 5 miles roundtrip) One of my favorite moderate hikes in the park any time of year starts at around 4,900 feet maxing out at 5,200 feet. The trailhead sits on the left side of Heintooga Ridge Road, which in turn intersects with the Blue Ridge Parkway near milepost 458. The trail winds through a beautiful forest that features American beech trees. A 2.5-mile walk ends at Heintooga picnic area with conveniently located wooden benches providing a clear view across the valley to Newfound Gap and its surrounding peaks.
• Little Cataloochee Trail, N.C. (about 8 miles roundtrip) The key to this hike is enjoying Cataloochee Valley, which sits at around 2,900 feet with views up the surrounding slopes covered in fall colors. Cataloochee Valley contains many lovely historic buildings including a church and schoolhouse. The hike includes a steep climb up to Davidson Gap at 3,700 feet and descends into Little Cataloochee, an “island community” with its own collection of wonderful historic buildings.
• Porters Creek Trail to Fern Falls, Tenn. (about 4 miles roundtrip) A relatively easy hike starting at 2,000 feet ending at 2,500 feet and a visit to Fern Falls. The trailhead is located at the end of Greenbrier Road. This trail is famous for its wildflower display in the spring and is one of my favorites year-round. The trail climbs slowly to the cascading 40-foot waterfall. Revisit this trail between April and May to witness an explosion of wildflowers including phacelia, bloodroot, and trillium.