Rustic respite from the world

John Warner photo

Mornings at The Swag come early as the twittering cacophony of songbirds peaks with the dawn. The din is not unpleasant as it causes one to begin to stir while stealing a few more minutes’ nap under the plush and cozy covers, before finally shuffling off to the steam shower—a special perk found in Gail’s Room, a recent addition to The Swag that combined two smaller rooms into a luxury suite.

With opened pores and soothed sinuses, one wraps up in a soft cotton robe, pours a cup of coffee brewed in-room, and stretches out on the private porch’s chaise lounge overlooking the mountains.

Adequately primed for the day and dressed for breakfast, one finds hearty offerings on the plate including biscuits and gravy, cider-simmered oatmeal, omelets to order, and fresh fruit. A continental breakfast will have already been served to the hikers who set out on a guided trip to meet the early birds in person, and one would be remiss not to embark on at least one day of adventurous trekking, as The Swag, located on a mountain high above Waynesville, N.C., abuts the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.

However, there is plenty of time for that. The Swag is blissfully devoid of modern distractions that can fritter away the day. There are no televisions to be found, though those hard up for the day’s sports scores or email from work and home can at least make use of the wireless connection—though it is not recommended.

Rather revel in the high-speed hummingbirds that feed en masse by the main lodge’s porch. Often Malcolm Matthews, The Swag’s truly enormous grey cat, can be found sunning himself here, completely disinterested in avian circus above and the tiny chipmunks that scurry about stealing fallen birdseed. He does however love a comfortable lap, and his brush hangs on the wall awaiting any willing hand.

A packed lunch can be had by request along with water bottles, hiking sticks, and backpacks for an afternoon jaunt. Be sure to venture out to Gooseberry Knob—a popular spot for weddings—to sit a spell in the gazebo and partake of the view. This amenity is available even to those who are not guests at The Swag.

Exercise one’s hand-eye coordination with a game of grass court badminton down by the pond. There’s even an underground regulation-sized racquetball court. Or just work up a relaxing sweat in the outdoor hot tub or redwood sauna.

No matter how one whiles away the days, dinner is The Swag’s traditional time to come together to recount the day’s adventures. Guests are seated at several tables scattered about the lodge’s main dining and living room and may choose to mingle with one another or enjoy a more private evening. Meals are bountiful with salad, soup, entrée, and dessert featuring herbs, fruits, and vegetables from The Swag’s own garden, and other local goods. A gourmet vegetarian option always is available and may be an enticing alternative even for omnivores. Dinner is another option for those who are not guests of The Swag to enjoy its riches, though there are limited spots available and those spots are filled only through advance reservation.

Frequently, The Swag hosts special events that bring entertainment to guests. August welcomes outdoorsman, author and storyteller Charles Maynard and birder Bob Collier. September welcomes singer/songwriter Doug Peters and storyteller Donald Davis. The after-dinner hour allows these visitors to share their knowledge and guests to wind down before turning in for the night.

As dusk falls, the night music can be heard through the open windows and the mountain temperature cools enough to warrant the stoking of a small fire to crackle and burn as book pages turn, until at last, the embers expire and sleepy eyes are retired.

For more information about The Swag, visit theswag.com or call 800.789.772. Accommodations range from $410 to $785 per night and include all meals and amenities.

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