Take the High Road
On a sunny day in mid-March, the hardwood trees lining Highway 197 in northeast Georgia reveal only the smallest of green buds, while cherry blossoms blush pale pink and forsythias herald spring in vivid bursts of yellow on the edges of the road.
Known as “north Georgia’s most scenic highway,” Route 197 begins in the north at US-76 and winds through the Chattahoochee National Forest in Rabun County. From there, it continues down through Habersham County to its terminus, some 30 miles to the south.
Locals will tell you that this road was dubbed the Old Moonshine Highway during Prohibition. “Folks used to say that sugar [necessary for making moonshine] came up the road, and liquid corn went down the road,” says Michael Foust, the manager of Mark of the Potter, a pottery gallery set in a historic grist mill on Highway 197. So familiar were the moonshiners with every serpentine twist of the highway, they would turn off their headlights on a moonlit night in order to make it more difficult for the revenuers to catch them.
Driving from north to south, Highway 197 zigzags past Lake Burton, hidden from the road except for a short stretch just north of LaPrades Marina, where the lake’s green-blue waters flash into view. Keep your eye out for signs to Moccasin Creek and Unicoi State Parks, and watch both sides of the road for artisan craft shops such as the renowned Burton Gallery, its walls lined with paintings by some of the Southeast’s most talented artists.
About halfway down the highway, the trout-rich Soque River parallels the road. After a storm, the river’s waters often wash over a low point in the road known to locals as “the Dip.” Past this landmark, the curves begin to straighten as 197 skirts emerald pastures before it rolls into downtown Clarkesville, the Habersham County seat.
Residents relish their quiet life along this delightful route, flanked by woods and waters. “We’re in the heart of God’s country,” says Abby Jackson, owner of Blackhawk Flyfishing. “And we’re blessed to be here.”
Although the highway is not long, plan to spend a day meandering its curves and stopping at natural sites and craft shops along the route. Here, arranged from north to south, are a few highlights:
Lake Burton/LaPrades Marina: Created by the Georgia Power Company in 1913, Lake Burton covers 2,775 square miles in Rabun County. For the best water views, as well as full access and amenities, stop at LaPrades Marina. The lake’s 62 miles of cove-pocked shoreline are best seen from the water, and LaPrades rents pontoon boats, ski boats, canoes, kayaks, and paddleboards. If the view’s the thing, stay to have lunch or dinner at LaPrade’s Chophouse. 25 Shoreline Trail, Clarkesville. 706.947.0010; lapradesmarina.com.
No One Alike: Father-daughter team Bill and Kim Padula opened this shop last summer. Kim, who studied fine arts, creates painted scarves and leather goods, in swirling multihued designs. Her dad crafts burl wood-handled Damascus steel knives and carves wooden bowls, peppermills, and bangles. After a visit here, pop in next door at Hickory Flat Pottery to admire the work of potters Cindy Angliss and Cody Trautner (hickoryflatpottery.com/hpgallery). 13430A Hwy. 197 N., Clarkesville. 803.528.1848.
Mark of the Potter: Set on the Soque River 10 miles north of Clarkesville, this is the oldest craft shop (est. 1969) in Georgia in its original location. Mark of the Potter displays the work of four in-house potters (so marked with yellow dots), along with the juried pottery of 40 regional and national artists. Note the vestiges of the 1931 mill, which have been incorporated into the retail space, and be sure to check out the upper deck. Here you can chill to the sound of the rushing falls, and toss food to the greedy trout that gather in the water below. 9982 Hwy. 197 N., Clarkesville. 706.947.3440; markofthepotter.com.
Blackhawk Flyfishing: Two decades ago, Abby Jackson and her husband renovated a circa 1860s farmhouse off Highway 197 as a rustic fishing lodge. Today they run it as a year-round fly-fishing operation on the Soque River, known for its rainbow and brown trout. On their private two-mile stretch of river, the couple operates a strictly catch-and-release program using barbless hooks. When Abby is not tending to guests, she whips up her own line of pickles, salsas, and hot sauce (abbyjsgourmet.com). This year, her Field to Fork Sweet Fire Pickles won a Flavor of Georgia Award. 9410 Hwy. 197. 706.947.3474; blackhawkflyfishing.com.
Harvest Habersham: A perfect place for dinner after a day of driving, this restaurant occupies a cheery 1940s storefront on Highway 197, which becomes Washington Street as it bisects the city of Clarkesville. An impressive list of local farms and producers supply the ingredients for daily changing entrées such as smoked corn bread-dusted catfish over grits, and buttermilk roasted chicken with sautéed kale confit and whipped sweet potatoes. Count on a well-chosen wine list and regional craft brews to complement your meal. 1362 Washington St., Clarkesville; 706.754.0056; harvesthabersham.com.