Slice of Sylva

We began our search on Sylva’s busy Main Street, and our first stop, The Coffee Shop, proved to not only have good pie, but also good people. After our waitress’s initial, “Hello, how are you?” she continued, “Well, I just spilled chicken gravy all over me, but can I get y’all something?”

Fast forward past two substantial plates of chicken and dumplings to the arrival of our much-anticipated reason for coming: a generous slice of coconut pie. We asked a close-by regular, our friend Bill Crawford, if the beautiful crust was homemade. Bill called to a woman at the counter, “Shandra, does your daddy still make all his own pies?” “Every mornin’,” she answered. “And he always uses ice water for the crust.” (Implying, “Doesn’t everyone?”)

The “he” who makes the pies is Gary Gibson. Gary and his wife, Phyllis (who prepared our chicken and dumplings), bought The Coffee Shop 30 years ago. They operate it with the same no-nonsense courtesy as when it originally opened in 1926—plain square brick on the outside, bright and warm inside.

Like the diner itself, the pie is a reminder of what makes Western North Carolina an attractive mix of sweet and seditious. The restaurant brings together Sylva regulars, tourists, folks from Qualla Boundary, and local students. With pictures of John Wayne and the Stars and Bars displayed alongside a subversive Native American poster, the restaurant, perhaps unwittingly, offers a multicultural take on Americana. 

If The Coffee Shop represents the old Sylva, just down the street are two representatives of the new: Heinzelmännchen and Innovation breweries. At Heinzelmännchen, owners Dieter Kuhn and Sheryl Rudd brew a variety of craft beers. Selections range from a summery hefeweizen-style wheat to a rich Black Forest stout. In addition to offering advice on food and beer pairings, Dieter talks beer lovers through the entire process of traditional German brewing, including using fresh hops and grains, ending with tastings in their fragrant taproom.

Dropping in a few blocks away at Innovation Brewing, we talked to the bartender about his preferences. A flight of his favorite five small-batch brews came arranged to sample on a hand-cut tree slice. Among the lagers, stouts, and IPAs, the crisp, citrusy blonde Afternoon Delight was a standout. 

Since our high-calorie intake of pie and drink induced the expected lethargy, a walk through downtown Sylva and up the 104 steps to the Jackson County Public Library was just what we needed. Constructed in 1914 as the county courthouse, the building’s stateliness and dignity complement the pride and professionalism of the librarians, staff, and volunteers—a congregation of folks who sincerely love what they do.

The library’s stunning entryway drops visitors immediately into a soaring atrium that is flanked by two-story windows, balconies, meeting rooms, floors of books, and a century-old granite rotunda. Even more memorable was when we caught our first view of the breathtaking, blue-tinged Plott Balsams that frame Sylva’s Main Street. Also housing the Arts Council, a museum, and the Genealogical Society, this majestic gathering place is truly Jackson County’s heart and soul. 

A few blocks away is City Lights Bookstore, yet another draw for the literary-minded. Founded in 1985 and now located in what was once a doctor’s office, City Lights is owned by Chris Wilcox. His staff offers a diverse collection of classics, rare out-of-prints, best sellers, and contemporary works by local writers—all guarded by Cedric and Rowena, the resident cats. Their Appalachian collection alone makes this local, independent bookstore worth a visit. And if you do not see the title you are looking for, inquire.

From just below the bookstore drifts the aroma of spices, sweets, and freshly ground coffee, inviting browsers downstairs to City Lights Café. Answering that call, we located a covered table outside on a cozy, plant-filled porch.  While waiting for our order, we chatted about mountain biking and animal rescue with the café’s proprietors, Bernadette Peters and her wife, Pat Thomas. To make sure there is no question on their enthusiasm for Sylva, articulated on their coffee mugs is a mantra that also greets diners on a large dining room banner: “Love your community.”