Old Meets New in Madison County

It’s seldom you can research a day trip to a regional community by first reading Google book reviews, but then there’s Madison County, North Carolina.

“Tucked away among the ancient and rugged mountains of Western North Carolina, Madison County … is one of the most misunderstood and least-appreciated counties in the entire state. Until only recently, hard to get into and out of, it has been a genuinely isolated area, blurred in the attention of even neighboring counties.”

That comes from a description of The Kingdom of Madison: A Southern Mountain Fastness and Its People by Manly Wade Wellman, a 1973 best-seller that helped pry open this gorgeous, inviting mountain county to those who knew nothing of it, or only paid attention to entertaining and not necessarily unfounded stories dating back to the Civil War.

Much has changed since those words were written. Today, Madison County offers visitors and residents a taste of small-town heritage, outdoor exploration, and a timeless tradition of musical history recognized around the world.

The county seat, Marshall, population 870, is an enclave of artists, galleries and studios located some 20 miles north of Asheville, shoe-horned between peaks on the banks of the French Broad River. Stroll down Marshall’s Main Street and you’ll find books, cafés, galleries, antique shops and eateries.

Joel Friedman opened Zuma Coffee in downtown Marshall in 2002 to offer residents and downtown visitors a place for coffee, a delicious sandwich, or just a place to nibble a nutty chocolate Zuma Gold cookie while hanging out watching passersby.

Schedules have been altered in 2020, but in normal times Zuma Coffee becomes a crowded bluegrass and old-time music venue every Thursday evening.

“Thursday nights are about honoring the music and musicians in Madison County,” Friedman said. Ten-time Grammy-winning fiddling legend and local resident Bobby Hicks frequently hosts the evening of music, which is part jam and part stage show. Any musicians who want to join in are welcomed, regulars or not, and a place in the line is made available. Those who want to just be entertained should arrive a good bit earlier than the 7 p.m. start time if they want a seat inside.

There are two other towns in Madison County—Mars Hill and Hot Springs—and across the small communities, the arts and performances have become one of the county’s most viable attractions and job creators.

“The arts are part of a larger movement, including homestead farming, craft apprenticeship, fairs, and markets, all of which place importance on a unique local experience,” said Erich Hubner, program director at the Madison County Arts Council. “The success of the Arts Council over the years has given other ‘creatives’ a foundation and resource to access when considering their own foray into the creative economy.”

Art on the Island

A focal point for the arts is Marshall High Studios, located in the historic high school built in 1925 on a 10-acre island in the French Broad River.

The restored building houses 26 studios, an auditorium, and an enormous deck in a park-like setting. The updated facility has attracted artists in all media: painting, textiles, jewelry, sound recording, yoga/movement, ceramics, photography, design, writing, massage, print making, music, and fiber.

Rob Pulleyn, owner of Marshall High Studios and co-founder of the seminal Asheville publishing company Lark Books, said Marshall and the surrounding area has a special vibe.

“It is so close to the buzz of Asheville, yet so different. It has a fascinating history, maintains a strong sense of community, and embraces its own pace. It has attracted folks from around the country who want to be part of that, including lots of young creative types,” he said.

“Marshall High Studios was started with a ‘build it and they will come’ attitude, and it worked. Artists and craftspeople now fill the old school, buildings are being renovated in downtown Marshall, and there are new galleries and restaurants. It’s really pretty exciting.”

The Depot, a converted railroad station in Marshall, is a popular community performance venue on Friday nights as locals strike up a soundtrack of traditional bluegrass and country music. There’s also plenty of music at the town’s regular French Broad Fridays, a series of free outdoor concerts.

Throughout the year, the Ebbs Chapel Performing Arts Center’s 250-seat theater hosts musical performances ranging from classical to the traditional.

The entire county also offers outdoor sports for all enthusiasts, whether you want a rafting trip, a cycling adventure along country roads, or an invigorating horseback ride.

And then there’s Mars Hill

East of Marshall is the town of Mars Hill, a small community also big on mountain traditions.

Mars Hill University, a private liberal arts school with an enrollment of more than 1,275 students, contributes significantly to the character of the town. Founded in 1856, the schools is one of the oldest educational facilities in Western North Carolina.

The university’s Rural Life Museum preserves and presents artifacts of traditional Appalachian communities, while the Weizenblatt Art Gallery shares visiting exhibitions and student and staff works.

Mars Hill hosts two long-running festivals celebrating mountain craft, music and dance: the Heritage Festival and the Bascom Lamar Lunsford Music Festival. Both occur the same weekend in October.

The music festival honors the history of native Bascom Lamar Lunsford, a prolific musician, farmer and attorney who recorded over 3,000 traditional mountain songs for the Library of Congress and the Columbia University Library, who also performed at the White House for the king of England.

The university is also home to the Southern Appalachian Repertory Theatre, founded in 1975 to become one of the region’s top regional theater draws.

There are 1,800 residents within Mars Hill town limits, and it sits close to Interstate 26, offering quick access to Asheville to the south or Tennessee to the north.

Also of note on campus are the doors to the Broyhill Chapel, featuring 20 hand-carved scenes from the Old Testament on the left-hand door and 20 scenes from the New Testament on the right-hand door.

Nearby is the Anderson Rosenwald School, a former African-American school recognized by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The school, closed in 1965, has been beautifully restored by the Friends of the Mars Hill Anderson Rosenwald School.

“The school will be an interpretive museum where folks can come and learn about black history in Western North Carolina,” says Willa Wyatt, chair of the Friends group.

Just north of Mars Hill is Wolf Laurel Resort, a mountain residential community begun in 1965, with elevations ranging from 3,800 feet to over 5,000 feet above sea level. The resort is mostly surrounded by The Pisgah National Forest and boasts a 750-acre nature land preserve trust and three entrances to the Appalachian Trail. Wolf Laurel Country Club has the distinction of being the highest golf course east of the Mississippi River.

Wolf Ridge Ski Resort offers 82 acres of terrain for skiers and snowboarders each winter, as well as snow tubing facilities. The resort has a quad chairlift and 130 snow guns. The lodge offers three fireplaces for getting rid of chill, a cafeteria and bar, and equipment rental.

Also nearby is Bailey Mountain Bike Park, offering a dedicated, year-round, world-class downhill and mountain biking facility.

Soaking in the hot tub

About 15 miles northeast of Marshall is the resort town of Hot Springs, which is also nestled next to the French Broad River and features the Appalachian Trail winding its way directly through downtown on Bridge Street. (This means visitors who walks Bridge Street can legitimately claim to have ‘hiked on the Appalachian Trail!’)

Each April, Hot Spring hosts the weekend-long Trailfest, a celebration of all things AT, complete with live music, local foods and athletic events.

Hot Springs got its name from the natural mineral springs constantly heated above 100 degrees, and is home to the 100-acre Hot Springs Resort and Spa, which dates to before the Civil War. Visitors can enjoy an hour in the spa or mineral bath, followed by a calming massage.

A short stroll away is Hot Springs Campground, with more than 100 tent sites and full RV hookups.

Downtown Hot Springs is also lined with cafes, coffee shops and gift stores, though many say the real action is in the surrounding waters and ridges, renowned for biking, fishing, kayaking and tubing.

Right downtown is Iron Horse Station, an extensively renovated inn, restaurant, and tavern with shops.

Downtown also features Spring Creek Tavern & Inn, offering accommodations in a renovated historic building on the creek, as well as dining and craft beers.

Every May, Hot Springs sponsors the French Broad River Festival, offering a roster of musical groups, whitewater and bike races, arts and crafts, vendors and a kid’s village. In a normal September, the town also plays host to the French Broad Fall Fest, a celebration of craft beer and live music set against the beauty of fall leaf season.

Get out, get busy

Madison County is a true adventurer’s paradise, whether you enjoy rafting, climbing, hiking, skiing and other outdoor activities, or perhaps you prefer a cozy seat with a good book and a beer, or live entertainment and traditional music.

One of the most popular day-trip destinations is Max Patch, a bald mountaintop next to the Tennessee state line located southwest of Hot Springs. At 4,629 feet, the bald offers 360-degree views of Mount Mitchell to the east and Great Smoky Mountains to the southwest. Visitors arrive either the hard way—by hiking the Appalachian Trail—or the easy way, driving up from Interstate 40 or over from Hot Springs.

An abundance of ferns and grasses blanket the man-made bald, which was originally cleared for cattle in the 19th century. Visitors repeatedly cite a visit to Max Patch as a highlight of their trip. (Be forewarned, though—there are no facilities at Max Patch.)

French Broad Adventures, located outside Marshall, offers whitewater rafting on the French Broad River, as well as calm water adventures. The facility features a ten-line zipline canopy tour with a sky bridge and treehouse, canyoneering trips, and a climbing wall.

Nantahala Outdoor Center, the nation’s largest outdoor recreation company, offers whitewater rafting and a gourmet lunch daily from its French Broad River Outpost near Marshall.

The Madison County Arts Council regularly presents shows at Broyhill Chapel at the university, at the Marshall Presbyterian Church, and at the Marshall Depot. Music, dance, theater, and storytelling are all part of the eclectic mix of performances, including recent shows by The Kruger Brothers, Leonard Hollifield, Hot Rize, and David Holt & the Lightning Bolts.

The council also organizes the annual ‘Tribute to the Fiddlers of Madison County’ concerts, which take place on the second Saturday in March; the Bluff Mountain Festival, held at the Hot Springs Spa and Resort on the second Saturday in June; and the Art On The Island Festival, which is usually held on the last Saturday in September at the Marshall High Studios building.

“It fascinates me that, for all that is new in Madison County, there are still traditional music performances every Thursday and Friday, and kids pack the Appalachian music program at the Madison County Arts Council,” Pulleyn said.