The Smokies’ Peaceful Side

Situated along the banks of the Little River, the picturesque village of Townsend, Tennessee, is laid back but never boring. The town slogan—The Peaceful Side of the Smokies—isn’t just a brand created to attract visitors; it is reality. Townsend will make you want to put down those phones, soak up some small-town charm, and let Mother Nature inspire as only she can.

Townsend is the portal to Cades Cove, one of the most popular areas in the national park, and has the enviable image of an unpretentious, idyllic resort town. With a year-round population of less than 500, that unsophisticated, unspoiled atmosphere is likely to remain the town’s calling card. Townsend doesn’t have the plethora of shops commonly seen in other resort towns, but the locally-owned establishments featuring high-quality mountain crafts, fine art, and outdoor gear offer a pleasant shopping alternative. 

The first stop is often the visitor’s center where one can kick back in a rocking chair on the porch and take in the pastoral view, then head inside to the Great Smoky Mountains Association store to browse a selection of items including trail maps, gifts, toys, music, and books. The exhibit room adjacent to the store is often filled with artisans demonstrating and selling their works, such as those featured at The Smoky Mountain Fiber Arts Festival on April 20-22, which will focus on the “sheep to shawl” concept of transforming fleece into finished goods and art pieces. The Spring Heritage Festival and Old Timers Day, May 4-5 features Bluegrass music, clogging, arts and crafts, food vendors, Appalachian skills demonstrations, storytelling, and guided wildflower walks.

Despite all the festivals, events and outdoor adventures, peacefulness still is the main attraction for Townsend, just as the slogan implies. But things haven’t always been so. The tranquility of Tuckaleechee Cove, Townsend’s original name, was disrupted in 1900 when Col. Wilson B. Townsend and his Pennsylvania investors purchased almost 80,000 acres along the Little River and its tributaries, and commenced logging the surrounding rugged terrain. They established Little River Lumber Company and built Little River Railroad to transport the logs. On May 5, visitors attending Little River Railroad Days will see blacksmiths, old rail cars, steam engines, and an authentic “setoff” house—a movable home used by logging families. The Little River Railroad Museum will give visitors a glimpse into the past when the headquarters for the lumber company and railroad were located in the village.

A visit to Townsend wouldn’t be complete without seeing the Smoky Mountains Heritage Center, whose mission is to preserve, protect and promote the unique history and rich culture of the people who once inhabited the Great Smoky Mountains and the surrounding area. Visitors entering the main gallery can explore the Native Americans of East Tennessee Collection, and the East Tennessee Mountain Culture exhibits. On the grounds of the Center an historic village showcasing a collection of traditional Appalachian buildings that cultivates an appreciation for the resilience and ingenuity of the Smoky Mountain pioneers. The Transportation Station features an impressive display of 19th and 20th century vehicles.  

Nature lovers and gardening enthusiasts shouldn’t miss The Lily Barn. The 130 year old cantilever barn—a late 19th century style of architecture unique to the area—is at the heart of the surrounding 100 acres. Fifteen of those acres feature a perennial garden specializing in lilies and native plants. A lively creek meanders through the garden, brimming with crawdads and shiners. Along with the barn, houses, and an array of garden gifts, there is an evergreen maze, a water garden, greenhouse and, in season, visitors will enjoy beautiful day lilies and native plants in bloom. The Lily Barn’s large open-air pavilion overlooking a perennial garden is a perfect setting for outdoor events.

Townsend’s shops features collections displayed both indoors and out, and several galleries exhibit and sell high-quality art and crafts created by local artisans like those associated with the Townsend Artisan Guild. Through individual participation of its members, the group promotes community interest and appreciation of the arts through participation in events, demonstrations, classes, festivals, and workshops. 

Worthwhile for any visiting angler, the Little River Outfitters Fly Shop is a reliable source of information about fly fishing in mountain streams. Serving fly fishing anglers since 1994, this unique business is the “home fly shop” to thousands of fishermen who live in the region or visit Townsend, and their mail-order service caters to anglers everywhere.  

Becky Goodman, owner/operator of Goodman’s Stained Glass Studio, has more than 30 years’ experience with stained glass training and education. She’s known for craftsmanship and attention to detail which means each custom piece, designed in collaboration with the customer, will be beautiful, top-quality, and unique. Becky creates stained-glass art pieces for all budgets, styles, and desires.  

When it’s time to settle in for the night, there are many lodging options to fit just about every budget. Some folks pitch a tent or park their RV. Others relax in a vintage, family-owned motor lodge, a mountain-modern hotel, or an elegant B&B, and it’s easy to feel right at home in a rustic or well-appointed cabin for 2 to 20. 

If you want to go green, the Townsend Gateway Inn is among the most eco-friendly hotels in America. This family-operated establishment offers both motor lodge-style rooms and cottages with rocking chairs flanking your entry. Ten years ago, siblings David, Pete, and Colleen Girard, bought and renovated the 1950s property, which had been vacant for the previous decade. 

The oldest continually-operating hotel in town is the Talley Ho Inn, which has come a long way since Victor Talley and his wife Helen began renting the original eight units in 1952. Today, with its lush and spacious grounds, a conference room, and cottages for up to 16 people, Talley Ho is group-friendly. Third generation Talley family members continue the tradition started over six decades ago.

Townsend’s premium lodging experience is Dancing Bear Lodge, surrounded by 38 beautiful wooded acres. It is the perfect blend of rustic warmth and modern amenities. The restaurant, Dancing Bear Appalachian Bistro, has been featured on the Travel Channel, and specializes in regionally-inspired dishes.

Chain restaurants are few and far between in Townsend, but mom-and-pop restaurants abound, with wide-ranging menu options. One eatery, Country Steak and Eggs, claims the “only way you can dine closer to the river is to bring a raft!” 

Riverstone Family Restaurant’s Smoky Mountain Mash— a home-style biscuit, topped with two sausage patties, white pepper gravy and two eggs on top—will jumpstart a day on the river, on a bike, or on the trail. An option for an old-fashioned, country-style meal is the Black Bear Café. It’s a tiny, family-owned restaurant serving up generous portions, even homemade desserts, and the price is right. Don’t mind the line in the summer months; it’s worth the wait.  

It wouldn’t be a trip to the Smokies without fudge, and The Chocolate B’ar has it. They also serve fresh, assorted pastries, and freshly-ground and brewed coffees and expressos. Latte truffle cups, sea-salted caramels, peanut brittle, and toffee are original masterpieces. The Artistic Bean, located in the same facility as their roaster, uses all-natural ingredients in their featured products including Columbia Excelso, Day Hiker’s Blend, and Guatemala Huehuetenango. Skilled baristas start from the ground up by roasting their coffee in small batches to insure consistency and flavor. 

Townsend is just the place to whet your appetite for more than food. A host of great outdoor adventures await, including horseback riding, renting an ATV for the day, and golf at Wild Laurel, a full service, par 70, 18-hole golf course. If hiking or biking is your thing, Shadows of the Past Hiking/Biking Historic Trail is a must. It offers five miles of scenic mountain beauty, and portions of the trail run along the river. The greenway provides access to restaurants, shops, and lodging. Perhaps the most popular activity is tubing on Little River, and there are numerous tube rental centers that offer equipment and shuttle service for a leisure float down the river. The best and biggest playground, the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, is only minutes away from anywhere in town. 

Known as the “Greatest Site under the Smokies,” Tuckaleechee Caverns is noted for its onyx formations, “Big Room,” and spectacular waterfalls. Tours are conducted along lighted walkways. The Caverns also host the most sensitive seismograph system on the planet.

 Townsend is the perfect place to relax and recharge.

“Our town is the best kept secret among the gateway communities of the Smoky Mountains,” says Mayor Michael Talley. “We pride ourselves on preserving our heritage and maintaining a pristine environment for our visitors and future generations. We like things just the way they are.”