Grandfather Mountain

If you look toward the sky while driving down Highway 105 near Foscoe, North Carolina, you will see a towering mountainside shaped like a man’s profile. This famous destination wasn’t always known as Grandfather Mountain. The original name was “Tanawha,” meaning “a fabulous hawk or eagle.” Although it’s been said Native Americans felt human-like faces were peering down at them from the mountaintops, it was deemed “Grandfather” by pioneers who recognized the face as that of an old man. 

Through the years, Grandfather Mountain has inspired millions of visitors with its natural beauty and majestic wonder. Like all ancient mountains, this one has a story to tell.

The History

Much of North Carolina’s mountainous terrain is lush with moss and greenery, but Grandfather Mountain is primarily rock, the result of millions of years of erosion, mountain building and rock formation, offering one of the most unique Alpine hiking experiences in the Northeast. There are four named summits on the mountain massif—Calloway Peak (5,964 ft.), Attic Window Peak (5,949 ft.), MacRae Peak (5,844 ft.) and Linville Peak (5,295 ft.). 

Many well-known early explorers visited Grandfather Mountain. Daniel Boone, the American woodsman, pioneer and frontiersman, was known to hunt in the area in the 1760s. Today, one of the most popular and challenging hikes at Grandfather Mountain State Park is the Daniel Boone Scout Trail, which ascends 2,000 feet over three miles.

French botanist Andre Michaux climbed Grandfather Mountain in August of 1794 and thought he’d climbed the highest mountain in North America. While Grandfather appears taller than neighboring mountains because of the abrupt and awe-inspiring way it rises above its surroundings, it’s certainly not the tallest in North America. In fact, it’s not even the highest in the region. Mt. Mitchell, at 6,684 feet, is located 40 miles south in the Black Mountain Range and Roan Mountain, at 6,285 feet, is located 20 miles west in the Unaka Mountains. 

John Muir, founder of the Sierra Club, visited Grandfather Mountain in 1898 to find relief for a bronchial cough. Not only did he feel the mountain air healed him, he was spellbound by the view from the top and said, “I couldn’t hold it in, and began to jump about and sing and glory in it all.” 

In earlier times, a horseback trail led up the slope of Grandfather Mountain to an overlook at “Cliffsides.” In the early 1900s, a one-lane road was created for automobile travel. A simple wooden platform was built where tourists could pay a toll to take in the views. This wooden platform was the precursor to what would become a worldwide attraction called the Mile High Swinging Bridge. 

Hugh Morton’s Gifts 

When Hugh Morton inherited 4,000 acres of Grandfather Mountain from his grandfather, Hugh MacRae, he immediately widened the road to two lanes and extended it to the summit where he built the iconic swinging bridge. The 280-foot suspension bridge has become synonymous with Grandfather Mountain. No trip is complete without a walk across this engineering masterpiece. 

“The bridge is certainly a main attraction of the    mountain,” said Frank Ruggiero, marketing and communications director for the Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation, “Most people have never stood on something that’s a mile high and offers a 360-degree panoramic view.” On a clear day, guests can even see the city skyline of Charlotte.

The bridge is America’s highest suspension bridge. It spans an 80-foot chasm at more than one mile in elevation. Atop the bridge, visitors are offered an exhilarating view from Grandfather’s Linville Peak. Former North Carolina Tourism Director Charles J. Parker coined the name “Mile High Swinging Bridge” at the site’s dedication in 1952. 

There are two ways to reach the bridge. Guests can pass through the paid entrance gate and drive two and a half miles to the top, stopping at other attractions along the way or hike up from one of the Grandfather Mountain State Park parking lots. The second option is a more challenging and lengthy way to reach the top, but it’s well worth it for avid hikers and backpackers. With Grandfather being rugged and rocky, some of the trails involve scaling cliffs via ladders and cables. If you hike to the bridge, there is no park entrance fee. 

The bridge wasn’t the only gift offered to Grandfather Mountain by Morton. In 1968, he purchased one male and one female black bear from the Atlanta Zoo. Morton planned to let them loose in the wild and allow them to acclimate to the mountain as their habitat. His ultimate goal was for Grandfather Mountain to be home to many black bears.

Upon release, the male bear ran off, never to be seen again. The female bear, Mildred, repeatedly returned to the swinging bridge area to visit with people. She had no interest in reverting to the wild. Mildred often posed for pictures with guests and frequently indulged in snacks such as Fig Newtons and orange soda. She also enjoyed picnics in the woods with her best friend, Hugh Morton. 

In 1973, a two-acre environmental habitat was built for Mildred and her family, but as the unofficial mascot of Grandfather Mountain, she often roamed freely. Ironically, she was terrified of walking across the swinging bridge, so if folks wanted pictures with her from the other side, her handlers helped her climb down the 80 foot chasm under the bridge and up the other side for the photo op. Over time, Mildred did her part to repopulate the mountain with black bears, having nine cubs and adopting three others. Mildred passed away in 1993.

Another cherished gift by Morton was his vast collection of Grandfather Mountain photographs. As a wildlife photographer and conservationist, he promoted the mountain for over 50 years through his photography and filmography. Morton’s photographic work has been donated to the North Carolina Collection Photographic Archives in Wilson Library at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. This collection is currently being digitized, a project which is being chronicled on the blog, A View to Hugh.

Things to Do and See 

To ensure permanent protection and preserve the wild character of Grandfather Mountain, Morton’s heirs sold almost 2,500 acres of the mountain’s wilderness backcountry to the state of North Carolina for a state park. This 2008 transaction included the sale of a conservation easement on the attraction area. 

In 2009, The Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation was created to operate the 720-acre attraction property. The foundation engages in research, education and conservation activities. 

“The goal of the foundation is to merge outdoor education with outdoor fun,” said Ruggiero, “We focus a lot on conservation and encourage our guests to make at least one change when they get home that will help preserve nature or protect the environment.”

When planning a trip to Grandfather Mountain, visitors sometimes need clarification about the different sections of the mountain. To clarify, the state park backcountry area of Grandfather is free to the public, the same as all state parks. This section consists of hiking and backpacking trails. 

The other section of the park is considered the attraction area and there is a fee. An admission ticket includes all attractions, including the Mile High Swinging Bridge, nature museum, educational programming, restaurants and animal habitats. Proceeds from ticket sales are managed by the Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation and are used to preserve and maintain the pristine beauty of the mountain.

When Morton took ownership in 1952, he had two goals—to make Grandfather Mountain more accessible to tourists and to create a nature preserve. Today, Grandfather Mountain is a globally-recognized preserve with a thriving ecosystem.

Botanists and naturalists have been exploring the trails on the mountain for centuries searching for one species or another. Harvard botanist Asa Gray visited Grandfather in 1841 in search of Shortia galacifolia (Oconee Bells), a lost species since the time of Michaux’s visit. While he was unsuccessful in locating Oconee Bells, he discovered a rare lily that bares his name. The beautiful Gray’s Lily blooms in high grassy areas on the mountain in June and July. 

A slew of other blossoms and berries spring to life from April though September. Depending on when you visit, you could see azaleas, mountain laurel, Turk’s cap lily, bloodroot, mountain magnolia, violets, phlox and much more. Grandfather Mountain’s website offers a bloom calendar to reference when walking or hiking. 

One signature burst of color significant to Grandfather Mountain is the rhododendron. 

Ruggiero calls these blossoms “one of the brightest gems on the mountain” and says the juxtaposition between the vibrant hues and rugged terrain is stunning. The elevation variation on the mountain—a nearly 1,000-foot change from base to peak—provides viewers with a longer window of opportunity to see the rhododendron in bloom. 

The environmental habitat created for Mildred was eventually expanded to include many other animals. Modern guests enjoy an up-close viewing of black bears, river otters, cougars, bald eagles and elk. All resident animals are indigenous to Western North Carolina and were either rescued, orphaned or born in captivity, which makes them unfit for release into the wild. When hiking the trails, folks will also see squirrels, songbirds and other forest animals. 

Ruggiero says his personal favorite attraction is the wildlife habitat. The playful otters are especially fun to watch. They love swimming back and forth to get the attention of spectators. In 2017, renovations were completed to accommodate two additional rescued cougars. Additionally in that same year, the park welcomed elk into its wildlife family. 

The Grandfather Mountain Nature Museum houses more than two dozen educational exhibits related to the mountain and surrounding region. The exhibits were designed by Dr. Rolland Hower, former Chief of Natural History Exhibits for the Smithsonian Institution. Visitors will learn about gems, crystals, Native American artifacts, animals, birds and more. One popular exhibit offers lifelike wax models of wildflowers, berries and mushrooms found on the mountain crafted by the late Paul Marchand, once the world’s leading creator of artificial plant life. The museum also boasts a theatre that shows short entertainment films throughout the day and brings aspects of Grandfather Mountain to life. 

Two delectable attractions are Mildred’s Grill and The Fudge Shop. The grill is a large family restaurant located in the Nature Museum. Folks can dine in or order picnic meals “to go.” The eco-friendly Fudge Shop, built in 2008, not only offers creamy fudge and other treats, but also a sustainable building with solar panels, skylights, bamboo flooring and rain collection barrels. 

To accommodate hikers of all skills levels, Grandfather Mountain offers over 12 miles of trails varying in difficulty from a low-impact saunter to rigorous treks across rugged peaks. These trails can be accessed from the summit. Hikers seeking a bigger challenge can venture into the mountain’s backcountry area. 

For centuries, Grandfather Mountain has offered serenity to humans, animals and botanicals. From a quiet hike in the woods searching for a rare violet to a thrilling walk across the mile high bridge, one can’t help but feel inspired and enlightened. As Ruggiero says, “Here at Grandfather Mountain, we like to say that wonders never cease. People who have been coming for years still find something new each time they visit.”

Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation 

The Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation was founded in 2009 by Hugh Morton’s family. It is a non-profit organization established to preserve Grandfather Mountain, operate the nature park sustainably, provide an exceptional experience for guests and inspire them to be good stewards of the earth’s resources. Core values include passion, community, conservation and sustainability. 

The foundation manages the attractions at Grandfather Mountain, which include the Mile High Swinging Bridge, wildlife habitat, nature museum and educational programming. An overarching goal of the foundation is to “bridge education with outdoor fun.” Their field trip program and on-site naturalist and conservationist programs are both highly regarded. There is a general admission fee to see and view all attractions. Proceeds go back into the foundation with the goal of preserving the pristine beauty of Grandfather Mountain. The area managed by the foundation is separate from the backcountry North Carolina State Park section of the mountain. 

The foundation’s vision statement is, “At more than a mile above sea level, Grandfather Mountain offers its guests a unique vantage point to the natural world. By bridging outdoor fun with education, the mountain provides an experience in nature unlike any other, filled with wonder, warmth and adventure.” 

To support the work of the Grandfather Mountain Stewardship Foundation, you can visit the park or donate directly. Learn more at grandfathermountain.com.