Traditionally, winter squash figured prominently in subsistence agriculture throughout the southern high country. Pumpkins and other “keeping” squash such as cushaws, candy roasters, acorn, butternut, and blue Hubbard varieties were grown in both fields and gardens.
Although pumpkins usually got top billing when it came to crops sown in tandem with corn and climbing beans, almost all types of squash worked perfectly well in the tried-and-true “three sisters” arrangement. They had ample elbow room for the vines to run, which they would do just about the time corn fields were “laid by” (plowed or hoed for the last time). From that point forward until fall harvest time, they managed perfectly well on their own. If some began to go bad in autumn because of a bit too much shade or unusually moist conditions, that posed no problems for observant farmers. They simply became hog feed, as did surplus squash in general.
Winter squash had other advantages beyond requiring relatively little care. They were prolific, versatile as table fare, and properly stored in a root cellar or nestled in straw beneath a protective shock of corn, would stay sound for much of winter’s hard times. As a result, collectively various members of the winter squash family were integral and important parts of mountain diet in yesteryear. While their culinary prominence has perhaps diminished to some degree in today’s world, they remain a treat with the added virtue of lending themselves to preparation in so many forms—soups, stews, vegetable side dishes, pies, “leather” for savory snacks, and sweet breads. In fact, about the only limitation to the use of winter squash is the cook’s imagination. The recipes which follow give some indication of that diversity as well as featuring different members of the winter squash family.
Candy Roaster Casserole
Candy roasters are a decidedly regional member of the squash family, but they have a long, strong culinary history in Southern Appalachia. Easily grown, hardy keepers, less stringy than pumpkin, and perhaps the sweetest of the winter squash, they are delightful whether used as a side dish or in desserts. Pretty much any recipe for pumpkins or sweet potatoes is suitable for candy roasters, but a longtime family favorite is a sweetened version somewhat similar to a sweet potato casserole or applesauce with cinnamon and brown sugar.
- 1 medium to large candy roaster (will produce about 10 cups of cubed squash)
- ½ cup brown sugar
- ½ cup molasses
- 1 stick butter
- ¼ cup orange juice and a tablespoon orange zest
- Pinch of salt
- 1 tablespoon cinnamon or all-spice
- ½ cup chopped pecans or black walnut meats
Prepare the candy roaster by peeling (a heavy-duty vegetable scraper is handy for this), removing the seeds, and cutting into cubes about an inch in size. Place in a casserole or baking dish with a pat of butter.
Combine all the other ingredients except the nuts in a pan and melt/blend over low heat to make a sauce, then pour over the candy roaster. Make sure to coat all the cubes completely.
Bake at 350 degrees for 45-50 minutes or until the candy roaster cubes are tender. Once that point is reached, top with the nuts and bake for 2-3 more minutes.
Cushaw Fruit Leather
Any of the sweeter winter squash—pumpkins, candy roasters, acorn squash, and cushaws—lend themselves to making a batch of what is generally known as fruit leather. In this case it isn’t exactly “fruit” since the key ingredient is a vegetable, but the leather uses apples or peaches in combination with cushaws to produce a neat and highly unusual snack.
- 1 quart cooked cushaw flesh (cut in halves, peel, remove seeds and cook in a sauce pan until easily mashed up—it may be necessary to add a bit of water)
- 1 quart of apple or peach sauce made from reconstituted dried fruit
- Pinch of cinnamon or all-spice
- 4 tablespoons raw honey
Use a whisk to blend the ingredients together and then spread atop lightly greased or silicone-treated baking sheets (or sheets covered with parchment paper) using a spatula, being sure to spread evenly and avoid air holes.
Place in an oven at 160 degrees or a dehydrator at its highest setting (usually 150 degrees). Bake for 4 to 5 hours until the entire spread is set. Remove and allow to cool to room temperature. Roll the cooled leather off the baking sheets onto waxed paper or parchment paper atop a cutting board. Use a sharp knife, ulu, or pizza cutter to slice into strips. If kids will be eating the leather, you might also want to use shaped cookie cutters. For longevity, store in a refrigerator.
Cooking Pumpkin Chiffon Pie
The word “cooking” is added simply because many of today’s store-bought pumpkins are suitable only for decorative use. Even Jim’s Grandpa Joe, who wouldn’t have known a Halloween pumpkin from Adam’s off ox, distinguished between cooking pumpkins and field pumpkins (the latter used primarily as hog food). Our favorite cooking pumpkin is an heirloom variety from seed with origins tracing back to Chambers Creek, which empties into the north shore of Fontana Lake, in pre-Great Smoky Mountains National Park Days. It is sweet, has far less fiber than most pumpkins, and works up with relative ease.
Mention pumpkin pie and most folks think of baked ones, but this chiffon pie requires refrigeration rather and an oven.
- 3 eggs
- 1 cup sugar
- 1 ¼ cups cooked pumpkin
- ½ cup milk
- 1 tablespoon orange juice
- ½ teaspoon orange zest
- ½ teaspoon salt
- ½ teaspoon nutmeg
- ½ teaspoon cinnamon
- 1 tablespoon unflavored gelatin
- ¼ cup cold water
Separate eggs and to yolks add ½ cup sugar, pumpkin, milk, orange juice, zest, spices, and salt. Cook in a double boiler until thick. Soften gelatin in cold water and add to hot pumpkin mix. Mix thoroughly and cool. When it begins to thicken, fold in stiffly beaten egg whites to which remaining half cup of sugar has been added. Pour atop a prepared graham cracker or ginger snap crust. Chill in refrigerator for 3-4 hours.
Brown Sugar Baked Acorn Squash
Easily grown in the home garden and readily available at the grocery store, acorn squash also offer the advantage of being much smaller than most types of winter squash (a single one is just right for two ample servings). This recipe is simple, requires little prep time, and has long been a family favorite.
- 1 acorn squash per two diners
- Brown sugar (molasses, cane syrup, maple syrup, or honey can be substituted)
- Butter
With a sharp, sturdy butcher knife cut the squash in half length-wise and use a spoon to scrape out the seeds and stringy pulp surrounding them. Lightly score the flesh of the squash, being sure you don’t cut all the way through. Place the squash halves on a cookie sheet or in a baking dish. Put 1-2 pats of butter in the cavity and then fill the remaining space with brown sugar or the sweetener of your choice. Bake at 400 degrees for an hour to an hour and 15 minutes (until squash is tender). Serve hot either as a sweet vegetable dish (the way my family ate it) or dessert.
Butternut Squash and Legume Stew
The most common use for butternut squash is in soup, but it can also form the basis of a hearty, healthy, and tasty vegetable stew. Combined with an old-time mountain favorite, crowder peas (you can also use black-eyed peas or lentils), and spinach, and flanked by a pone of cornbread, this dish makes mighty fine fare on a cold winter day.
- 1 sweet onion, diced
- 1 teaspoon coriander
- 1 tablespoon finely chopped ginger root
- 1 tablespoon vegetable oil
- 1 teaspoon cardamom
- 1 butternut squash, peeled, seeded, and cut into small chunks (an inch or so)
- 1 pound dried crowder peas or other legume (lentils require no pre-soaking, but for crowder or black-eyed peas three hours in a pan of cold water is recommended)
- 6 cups low sodium chicken broth (strict vegetarians can substitute vegetable broth)
- 6 cups spinach, shredded
- 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar
- ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1 teaspoon salt
After carefully “looking” your legumes, combine all ingredients except the final four in a pressure cooker and heat to high pressure and then lower heat to medium. Cook for 12 minutes and release pressure. Check the peas to be sure they are done. If not, cook 2 or 3 minutes longer. When done, add the spinach, vinegar, salt, and pepper and stir in. NOTE: Ingredients in this recipe can be halved.
About the author: Jim Casada’s latest book, A Smoky Mountain Boyhood: Musings, Memories, and More, has just been published. To order a signed copy or for more information, visit his website at jimcasadaoutdoors.com.