Sarah E. Kucharski photo
Andrew Johnson Homestead
Andrew Johnson owned this home for twenty-four years, both before and after his presidency. During the Civil War, soldiers occupied the house and left it in a state of disrepair. The family renovated the home following their return home from Washington, and it is now filled with much of the original family memorabilia.
Rolling farmlands and the wide river valley of the Nolichucky give way to the town of Greeneville, Tenn. Named in honor of Nathanael Greene, General of Washington’s Army of the Republic, Greeneville was settled in 1783.
Greeneville was from 1785 to 1788 the Capital of the state of Franklin, the smallest and most short-lived state in the history of our nation, created when founders including Rev. Samuel Doak and John Sevier seceded from North Carolina.
Today, the town is a history lover’s paradise—downtown is quaint, and there are several wonderful museums dedicated to the likes of Greene, Doak, Davy Crockett, and the nation’s 17th president, Andrew Johnson, as well as a host of historical homes. The outdoor enthusiast will enjoy the town for its access to the Cherokee National Forest and Nolichucky River in addition to great agritourism sites, many of which can be found along the Northeast Tennessee Quilt Trail.
Doak House Museum
This 1830-era home belonged to Tusculum College’s founder, Rev. Sam Witherspoon Doak. Doak’s father was the first Presbyterian minister to settle in the frontier region that would later be known as Tennessee. Visitors may tour the home, which features family antiques, and explore the grounds and restored schoolhouse building. Traditional music pickings are held from 6 to 8:30 p.m. on the fourth Friday of each month. The museum, along with the President Johnson Museum and Library, is managed through Tusculum College’s Department of Museum Program and Studies.
Dickson-Williams Mansion
Greeneville’s first postmaster built this home in 1821. During the Civil War, the home served as officer’s quarters for both Confederate and Union troops. Tours are available daily in season.
Davy Crockett Birthplace
Outside Greeneville is a 105-acre park along the Nolichucky River featuring a replica of Crockett’s birthplace cabin, camping, a swimming pool, picnic areas, fishing, and hiking trails. The visitor center is only open during the week; however, the grounds are open from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. in the summer and until 6 p.m. in the winter.
Each year Greeneville hosts the Antique Appraisal Fair, which welcomes vendors from the region to display their wares and help antique owners determine the value of their belongings. Since all antiques on display have been brought in specifically for the fair, they tend to be smaller — jewelry, signage, pottery, quilts, chotchkies, and more. Those looking for furniture, farm equipment, or other equally large antiques are advised to head to one of Greeneville’s several antique stores. Greeneville Antique Market is located downtown on Depot Street and sprawls three floors. Affordable Antiques and Greenwood Antiques, both along Main Street, also are of note. Those on an antiquing trip may wish to stay at Tanasi Hill Bed & Breakfast, which is in a Victorian home built by James Britton, a good friend of President Andrew Johnson, in 1860. The inn features an on-site antique shop.
Arts scene
Visitors also may explore the arts community around Greeneville, Tenn. through the handful of galleries found around town—Artspace4 Gallery, Evans Jewelers, Greeneville Antique Market, James-Ben Studio and Gallery Art Center, Mason House Art Gallery, Oak Tree Gallery, and On the Verge Gallery. These art spaces boast a surprising array of works by artists from around the region. On the Verge Gallery is featuring the work of Amy Saxonmeyer through April. Saxonmeyer’s works are fun and vibrant explorations of color that range from mountain landscapes to musician portraits. The month of May will bring an outsider artists exhibit to the gallery.
Fans of the stage should check the calendar at the Niswonger Performing Arts Center, which will host Ricky Skaggs and Kentucky Thunder in May.
And Greene County features sixteen stops along the quilt trail that spans Northeastern Tennessee. Highlights along the trail include “Red Log Cabin” at Myers Pumpkin Patch and Greenhouse, “Maple Leaf” at Walnut Ridge Llama Farm and Store, “Sawtooth” at James Ben Studio and Art Center, “Blueberry Pie” at Middle Creek Blueberry Farm, and “Ear of Corn” at Still Hollow Farm. Visit quilttrail.org for a map of each stop along the way.
Ride a horse, support a cause
Mustang Alley Horse Rescue is a 501(c)3 non-profit horse rescue, dedicated to the horses of Northeast Tennessee and the surrounding areas, to provide a safe and secure home for unwanted, abused, abandoned or neglected horses, mules, donkeys, and ponies. Mustang Alley rehabilitates these animals and places them in qualified homes that have been screened and inspected.
In March, Mustang Alley rescued twenty-eight registered Tennessee Walking Horses. The horses are among the several already in foster care at Mustang Alley who are up for adoption including Elvis, a 10-year-old paint pony, and Lily, a 4-year-old black Racking Horse. All horses currently up for adoption can be found at mustangalley.org.
To help support the non-profit, Mustang Alley offers guided trail rides through 50 acres in the Cherokee National Forest. Hourly rides are only $20 per person. Horse or pony rides in the ring are available for children at a cost of $8 for fifteen minutes. Visit mustangalleyridingstables.com for more information.
Donations are so important to Mustang Alley. The organization has a running wish list of items including small things such as horse blankets, wheelbarrows and water buckets, and large equipment needs such as a riding lawnmower, backhoe, and a tractor. A shelter also is needed so that people and horses may come together in a special program that supports victims of domestic violence—Mustang Alley has partnered with A Safe Harbor Home, which is a transitional shelter for domestic violence victims. Time spent at Mustang Alley is time to clear minds and hearts and is a bonding experience between human and animal victims of abuse.
Mustang Alley’s stables are located off the same road as Round Knob Picnic Area. Horseback riding, picnicking, and hiking will make for a great day in the national forest.
The Cherokee National Forest
The Nolichucky/Unaka Ranger District of Cherokee National Forest offers exceptional opportunities for outdoor recreation. The district spans Cocke, Greene, Washington, and Unicoi counties in east Tennessee, while the forest spans from the state’s border with Georgia, along the
Pisgah National Forest in North Carolina and the Tennessee side of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, and up to Virginia. Cherokee National Forest is Tennessee’s largest tract of public land and only national forest. The district gets its name from the Nolichucky River and the 5,180-foot Unaka Mountain. Nolichucky is a Cherokee word that means “evergreen place.”
Be sure to stop by the Ranger Station located outside of Greeneville along Asheville Highway to pick up free information about hiking, camping, picnicking, swimming, water access, horseback riding, and the Bubbling Springs Rifle Range.
Of particular note is the hike to Margarette Falls in the Greystone area. The 1.3-mile hike is not for those who are weak in the knees, those who do not like scrabbling over rocks, or those who dislike getting wet and muddy. An easy-going Forest Service road marks the first half-mile of the trail, which then takes a sharp and rocky turn uphill for the rest of the journey. There’s no need to hurry, as there are plenty of points to enjoy a dip in Dry Creek. The trail ends at the picturesque, fan-shaped Margarette Falls with its 50-foot drop.
Also visit Round Knob Picnic Area, located at 3,200 feet. The drive up is perhaps best for high-clearance vehicles, or it warrants slow going, which provides for time to enjoy the valley view. The Civilian Conservation Corp built the picnic area’s pavilion in the 1930s. Round Knob was taken from its original owner, William Jennings, a Confederate sympathizer, in a post-Civil War lawsuit. Three trails are found at Round Knob—Jennings Creek Trail, Cowbell Hollow Trail, and Little Jennings Creek Trail. These trails form a look that connects Round Knob with Old Forge Campground.
Accommodations and Dining
Stay on the banks of the Nolichucky River at Nolichucky Bluffs Bed and Breakfast Cabins. These family-friendly cabins are a perfect place to spend an extended stay in Greeneville. Children will enjoy the playground, disc golf course, and homemade ice cream and cookies available at Gramma’s Cupboard, where home-cooked breakfasts are served. Couples particularly will enjoy the peaceful location,
Jacuzzi, antique gristmill, and gardens. As an added bonus, Nolichucky Bluffs is within walking distance of Kinser Park, which has a pool, waterslide, putt-putt, golf, fishing, a game room, ball fields, horseshoe pits, tennis course, basketball court, river access, and camping. The location makes Nolichucky Bluffs a great basecamp for explorations of Greeneville, the Cherokee National Forest, and even parts of North Carolina such as Hot Springs.
In historic downtown Greeneville, the General Morgan Inn is a stunning place to stay awhile and within walking distance of most of the town’s major historical attractions. Originally built in 1884 as a railroad hotel, this landmark inn features newly renovated guest rooms and offers upscale creature comforts. Brumley’s, the inn’s premiere restaurant and lounge, serves Southern American cuisine including steaks, fish, and pasta. The she-crab soup is of particular note, as is the crisp and refreshing spinach and strawberry salad. Brumley’s is known for its homemade pecan chicken salad, which is available at lunch. And be sure to look for the charming spumoni cheesecake on the dessert menu.
Adjacent to the General Morgan Inn is the Chocolate Café, which, despite its name, offers up a much broader menu. Come here daily for soups, wraps, and more noteworthy chicken salad. A second location is near Tusculum College and makes for a great lunch spot while exploring the school’s museums and architecturally interesting campus.
Families will most likely want to visit Gondolier Italian Restaurant, which is good for large groups and offers up everything from pizza to signature baked ziti and other classics. Gondolier is outside of historic Greeneville on the major strip of Andrew Johnson Highway, but is along the way to the Davy Crockett Birthplace State Park—which is a good place for kids to get some of their ya-yas out. Other local favorites include Tipton’s and Little Top Drive Thru for quick, unfussy food.