Meg Reilley
Sweet pickle relish
I am an “all purpose” lady. Which is to say that I most prefer those objects that serve a multitude of purposes. From all-terrain vehicles to all-weather coats, an item whose usefulness can be employed on a daily as opposed to occasional basis gets my vote.
Sure, there’s a time when specificity is the order of the day. When it’s raining something fierce, only a slicker will do. Snow pants typically only come out when the ground is frosty and white. The carving knife won’t do when it’s time to slather your hot toast in butter. That said, objects with a singularity of purpose tend to spend more time languishing and gathering dust in the closet, the pantry, the attic, or the basement than their can-do, down-for-whatever kin.
In my kitchen, I’ve been an “all purpose” fan for as long as I’ve been stirring, whisking, chopping, puréeing, or otherwise engaging in any food and beverage-related task. Any ingredient, utensil, or piece of equipment that serves multiple purposes is welcome any time. While my stand mixer, my jar of flour (all-purpose, naturally), and my silicone baking mats take first rank as the culinary stalwarts, there’s a condiment that I keep in regular supply that would give them a good run for second place. Right alongside capers, olives, and dill pickles, sweet pickle relish is an all-purpose component of numerous dishes coming out of my kitchen, from deviled eggs to meatloaf to Russian dressing.
My mother and grandmother both hail from Henry County in southwestern Virginia, specifically the small mountain towns of Martinsville and Bassett, respectively. It was from them and their own kitchens that I first gained my appreciation of and respect for the full reach of sweet pickle relish. Tucked into deviled eggs, potato salad, sloppy joes, hot dogs, tuna sandwiches, meatloaf, egg salad, and so much more, jars of sweet pickle relish were in nearly constant use. Aside from mayonnaise (Duke’s, of course, another all-purpose champion if there ever was one), this sweet and sour vegetable mixture was the workhorse of their kitchens, and has since become one in mine.
Likely brought to the United States by British settlers, who in turn had been introduced to some iteration of it by their dealings in India, sweet pickle relish is now the most commonly consumed variety of pickle nationwide. While I can’t speak to other parts of the U.S., having lived my entire lifetime in the Southern states, I can affirm its importance in Southern kitchens. I use it every season, typically once or twice weekly. An opened jar of it never spoils in my refrigerator, nor rests too long on my pantry’s shelves. Come warmer weather, when cucumbers and peppers are in abundance, consider putting up some sweet pickle relish of your own. I guarantee it’ll become an all-purpose all-star of your own kitchen in no time.
About the author: Candler, N.C., homesteader Ashley English is the author of seven books. See smallmeasure.com.
Sweet Pickle Relish Recipe
From Canning & Preserving with Ashley English: All You Need To Know To Make Jams, Jellies, Pickles, Chutneys & More, Lark Books, 2010.
Makes 6 half-pints
You Will Need
- 4 medium cucumbers, peeled, seeded, and diced
- 2½ cups sweet onion, diced
- 1 cup green pepper, diced
- 1 cup sweet red pepper, diced
- ¼ cup pickling or kosher salt
- 3 cups granulated sugar
- 2½ cups cider vinegar
- 1½ tablespoons yellow mustard seeds
- 1½ tablespoons celery seed
- 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
To Make
1) Combine the cucumbers, sweet onion, green and red peppers, and salt in a large non-reactive bowl. Toss to combine, cover with a kitchen towel, and let stand in a cool area overnight or for at least four hours.
2) Drain and rinse the vegetables in a colander. Rinse several times, pressing the vegetables with the back of a wooden spoon to remove all liquid and salty residue. Set aside.
3) Sterilize six half-pint jars. Fill a canner or stockpot with enough water to cover the jars by three inches. Bring to a boil while you prepare the relish.
4) In a medium stainless-steel saucepan, combine the sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, celery seed, and turmeric. Add the vegetables, and bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes.
5) Pack relish into the prepared jars, leaving half-inch headspace. Use a nonmetallic spatula to remove any trapped air bubbles, and wipe the rims clean with a damp cloth. Place on the lids and screw bands, tightening only until fingertip-tight.
6) Process for 10 minutes in a boiling water bath. Adjust for altitude as needed.