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Grab A Paddle and Float the Cheat
The Cheat River’s status as one of the longest free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States provides a wealth of recreational opportunities.
2 of 3
Grab A Paddle and Float the Cheat
The Cheat River’s status as one of the longest free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States provides a wealth of recreational opportunities.
3 of 3
Grab A Paddle and Float the Cheat
The Cheat River’s status as one of the longest free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States provides a wealth of recreational opportunities.
The Cheat River in West Virginia carves through a tight canyon as inaccessible as any in the Pacific Northwest. “While accessing the Cheat can be challenging, in terms of its quality, the Cheat is unbeaten,” says Beth Warnick with the organization Friends of the Cheat.
But perhaps the most popular section of this scenic waterway is the Upper Cheat River Water Trail, which includes 38 miles of beginner-friendly, class I to II water, perfect for canoes, recreational kayaks, and family trips.
Dave Cassell recalls a conversation he and a friend had after 60 years of walking, boating and fishing the Cheat. “We were talking in 2010—we’ve practically got this river to ourselves. It just seemed nobody was using it. It is such a beautiful river.”
The pair scheduled a conversation with members of Friends of the Cheat. “Maybe this would be a good place for a water trail,” Cassell said he remembers saying.
While the southern section of the Cheat—the river flows north—has hair-raising Class IV rapids, the upper section is most appealing to those just wanting a pleasant day on the water. “It is gentle, flowing water. The water trail flows 38 miles. It is good for beginners. You can take a tube, kayak, canoe. There’s no rapids or danger points. It gets a lot of first timers interested in being outdoors.”
Pam Ruediger, another resident who enjoys exploration on the Cheat, said the designation as a water trail is specific to waterways that are not vigorous and challenging to enjoy. “A water trail has to be beginner- and family-oriented,” she said.
Riding the Upper Cheat Water Trail “is not an adrenalin rush. It’s just the opposite,” Cassell said. “It’s calming,” and perfect to get people outside to play.
“The scenery is fantastic,” Cassell said, “It’s isolated, with a lot of wildlife.”
A trail just for boats
The Cheat River’s status as one of the longest free-flowing rivers in the eastern United States provides a wealth of recreational opportunities.
A water trail, simply put, is a trail for boats, the Friends of the Cheat point out. It consists of a network of access points, resting areas, and points of interest for users of human-powered watercraft. Often referred to as a ‘school house without walls,’ water trails engage those who travel their waters in ecological preservation and stewardship of public lands. The formation of the Cheat River’s main stem marks the start of the Upper Cheat River Water Trail, with several access points near the towns of Parsons and Hendricks. The trail covers nearly 40 miles of beautiful water through calm, flat pools and wide, shallow riffles. Currently, the existing access points allow for trips of various lengths and scenic opportunities. The Cheat’s status as a biodiversity hotspot means wildlife encounters are typical—expect to see a brilliant display of the region’s flora and fauna as you meander through the Water Trail’s scenic valleys, open pastures and forested mountainsides.
Pollution laws saved the river
Dave Ruediger said the Cheat River, like many American waterways, was plagued with pollution a generation ago. “As you go north, there was a lot of mine activity. That area had a lot of problems until fairly recently. Where we are, in Tucker County—we’re further south—there was pollution. There was mining and timbering, and factory activity, but that was quite a while ago.” There were a cannery and a garment factory, and they also had some tanning operations there.
“It’s been highly polluted,” Cassell said, but oversight and federal clean water laws made “a huge difference” in the quality of the water, both said.
“I think it’s a healthy river now, and its getting better all the time,” Cassell said. “But like everything else, if you don’t keep and eye on it and keep checking, it could go the other way.”
Pam Ruediger agrees that federal regulations helped save the river. “That’s really true. The Clean Water Act is really the key to the cleanliness of the Cheat River today,” she said.
“A whole different view” from the water
Cassell said visiting the Cheat River Water Trail is an important element of his life. “I have a campsite on the river. I enjoy paddling in general; kayak or canoe.”
The calmness of the water is appealing to young and old, he said. “Taking your time on a beautiful day; that’s pretty much what I like to do.”
The Ruedigers say the river is fantastic for water lovers who may have aged out of extreme sports. “We whitewater kayaked in our 50s. We’re not there anymore,” Pam said.
They enjoy “the sound and smell of clean, free flowing water surrounded by woods,” she said. “And mountains,” Dave added.
“There’s an awful lot of other things to see along the river,” Dave Ruediger said. “When we take friends, we talk about the history and some of the folklore. Early settlers were there,” there are stories of “Indian fights and skirmishes. Civil War battles were fought” in the area, he said.
“The neat thing is we have eight access points,” Cassell said. “You can plan a trip for whatever duration you like—short section, long section; overnight or two night.”
The organization offers activities to introduce visitors and newcomers to the water trail, Cassell said. “We have two events every year” to “get people out, including a lot of newtimers. We do a group paddle. You see a lot of younger kids, and that’s encouraging,” Cassell said. When anyone’s out on the Cheat, “they’re not on Facebook; they’re not on the phone.”
Slowly paddling the smooth water gives visitors a different perspective, he said. “I think they see a whole different view” of life from the river.
“Keep in mind there are 70 miles of untamed waterways upstream of the Water Trail—a sudden storm or high water event miles away can cause the river to rise several feet in just an hour. Flash flooding can occur during heavy downpours due to the steep topography into which the Cheat is nestled,” Warnick said.
Clear river water great for snorkeling
“We fish quite a bit” during river visits, Dave Ruediger said. “But a lot of times we just paddle and float, enjoying the river and scenery. We also snorkel and swim.”
Pam said she enjoys seeing “the different wildflowers along the river trail.”
Wait. Back up a bit. Snorkeling?
“There are several eddies, and in the eddies the water is calm and clear. Last year David got me a full-faced snorkel mask. It is so much fun to come face-to-face with fish and have them study you,” she said.
“And the rocks,” Dave added. “The river is filled with rocks. The rocks are constantly changing. The water is extremely clear,” he said.
River snorkeling is an up-and-coming activity, Pam said. “Friends of the Cheat started bringing in school groups. They have wet suits and snorkel gear for them. That’s going to become part of their educational program.”
Safety is paramount, even on calm water
“Here’s a very important factor,” Pam said. “People need to wear protective floats if they are not familiar with kayaking. There’s so many new people starting in kayaking now, and some don’t have a personal floatation device. They don’t realize, even when the river is flowing gently, the power and push the water has. The power of water is something to be reckoned with, even when it is a gentle stream,” she said.
Located on the river’s edge in the storied community of St. George, Blackwater Outdoor Adventures provides guided paddling trips and a river outpost and general store to supply fishing, camping, whitewater, tubing and canoeing needs.
Owner Patrick McCann said he sees lots of kayakers, canoe enthusiasts and paddle boarders.
“We see a lot of standup paddle borders out there. We have over 30 miles of canoeable water right outside our front door. Oftentimes you will have the river to yourself,” he said.
Though you may have to drag the kids along, river fun “is an excellent way to unplug. Kids always love being in the water,” he said. “Kids and water are always a great combination.”
Blackwater offers a seven acre campground with a bathhouse and hot showers. “Essentially its a big field. We don’t have hookups for RVs,” McCann said, though RVs are welcome. “There are firepits” and lots of water adventure.
The facility is open April 1 through Labor Day, he said, which is also the best season for wide-ranging river adventures.
Towns along the Cheat include Parsons, St. George and Rowlesburg.